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To get to the rear of the trigger bar, I have a modified dremel attachment. I cut small narrow strips of sandpaper, then hold it on the dremel attachment with a very small o-ring. Makes changing out the sandpaper strips a snap. I'll post a pic of this little tool.On the main trigger bar and exposed areas, I use 400/800/1000 and keep it wet with WD-40 (I buy WD-40 in the gallon can). Also remember it's critical to alternate your sanding pattern, up-down, then side-to-side, but go lightly, not much pressure. This alternating pattern will produce the desired level of polish quickly and efficiently. Lastly, I have a super fine polishing compound I use a small felt dremel wheel with for obtaining a glass like finish. Polished metal is slow to rust since the pores of rough steel are essentially eliminated. Just a light coat of lube will keep the polished parts rust free.
You know what we need is a trigger bar like the SVI 1911 trigger bow. Made from high quality tool steel and with balls bearings in it so it rides as smooth as butter.
Here's the trigger bar and disconnector as they look when installed in the pistol. I estimate 85%+ of the friction in DA is right here, so taking extra time to smooth and polish in these areas will deliver great dividends. The goal is to remove as little metal as possible and still acheive a a mirror finish. Also, nothing beats the actual wearing in of the action, so I consider this as the foundation for an even smoother action in a short time frame.I have also been testing a very high content moly grease that can actually lower the DA pull a few ounces by itself, so I add the moly in these critical areas when I do a final reassembly.