Author Topic: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation  (Read 19169 times)

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Offline chrisp51

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Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
« on: May 05, 2014, 06:20:07 PM »
I just got the CGW SPGK1 3 spring kit and want to install it in my Tri star C 100.  Does anyone know of a video showing how to do this?  Thanks.

Offline DexterGSP

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Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
« Reply #1 on: May 05, 2014, 07:31:18 PM »
It's all pretty straight forward except for the hammer main spring.  The one that Cajun sent me was too large of a diameter, which caused binding against the mag brake.  I had to relieve a small portion of the mag brake to make it work.  Also, I left the firing block spring in the pistol and did not use the one that came with the Cajun kit.  Mine was smashed flat when I got it.  I really don't think it adds any appreciable weight to the DA.  The light weight of the firing pin spring made me a little nervous regarding reliability anyway.  Just make sure you have correct fitting punches (length and width) and take your time.  If not you may booger up the gun.

Paul
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Offline p4R4d0x

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Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
« Reply #2 on: May 05, 2014, 07:41:23 PM »
I just got the CGW SPGK1 3 spring kit and want to install it in my Tri star C 100.  Does anyone know of a video showing how to do this?  Thanks.

I could make one if I could find the cord for my camera, since I've just done it twice...  :-[  I'll try to outline the general process, though, if that helps?

1. Make sure gun is unloaded and chamber is empty!

Hammer Spring - This is in the rearward vertical portion of the frame, behind where the magazine slots in.
1. Remove empty magazine and grips.
2. Remove hammer spring channel cap:
   - Make sure hammer is uncocked (doesn't really matter, but will be easier to push against the spring if it's uncompressed)
   - Take a look at the lower frame underneath the grips.  You should see one narrow/skinny pin up near the slide, and one thicker one down near the base of the frame.  We'll be focusing on the lower one.
   - Press up against the circular plug in the very bottom of the frame.  Right now you are compressing the hammer spring slightly.
   - While pressing up, use a punch of some sort to push out the lower most pin (the thicker one mentioned a bit earlier), and then gently release the circular plug.  It's under spring tension, but it won't go flying because it's being held in by the flat piece of springy metal that covers the rear of the magazine well. 
   - Using a punch or something that you can get some decent leverage with, push that cylindrical plug thing back down into the frame until you can remove the magazine brake (the springy piece of flat metal) from the spring.  It has a slightly hooked piece on the end and just needs to be pulled away from the spring.  Be gentle with this piece as it's easy to bend, and if you do bend it, it can take some adjusting before your magazines will drop freely again. 
   - Once you have the mag brake freed from the spring release GENTLY the plug.  It will go flying this time if you're not careful. 
   - Now the hammer spring should drop freely out.  Put the fancy new one in the same place.
3. Replace the hammer spring!
   - Reverse the instructions for removal:
   - Put the new spring in the channel, making sure the hammer strut is inside the spring.
   - Push the cylindrical cap back into the channel, compressing the spring, you'll most likely need a punch or something of the sort again here, since you need to push the cap far enough up that you can replace the magazine brake hook on the spring.  Once you get the hook, make sure the flat metal magazine brake ends are notched into the narrow slots on the bottom of the frame.
   - Push the cap in again and slide the pin back in - sometimes I'm able to do this step with just my thumb pushing on the cap.  Once everything is lined up properly, it should be easy to slide the pin in, you don't need a hammer/punch or anything. 
   - Replace the grips.
Now you're done with the frame! Onto the slide...

Firing pin spring and firing pin block spring - these are both in the slide.  The larger one is the spring that pushes the firing pin rearward that the hammer must overcome when the trigger is pulled to force the pin into the primer of the cartridge.  It is wrapped around the front portion of the firing pin, so to get to it we need to remove the firing pin. 

The smaller of the two springs is the firing pin block spring - this spring forces the firing pin block downward, blocking the path of the firing pin from entering the chamber, until the trigger is pulled, when a portion of the sear pushes this up and out of the way.  You can see this piece if you take the slide off and look underneath towards the rear - it will be offset from the center and you will be able to push it up with your finger.  We must also take this piece out.

1. Your gun is still unloaded, right? Good. Get the magazine out of there, too.
2. Take the slide off of the frame - line the two notches on the rear of the slide and frame up, and then push on the protrusion of the slide stop on the right side of the frame with the base of your magazine until you are able to grab and pull out the slide stop itself.  Once the slide stop is gone, the slide should come slide forward all the way off of the frame.
3. Remove barrel and recoil spring assembly. Set aside.
4. Now take a look at the frame.  Near the rear, where the serrations are, you will see a large-ish roll pin going through the slide.  This roll pin retains the firing pin - you'll need to remove it.  Use the appropriate sized roll pin (sorry, I don't know what size, my set isn't labeled  :-\) and a soft mallet of some kind if you have it - it shouldn't require too much force to knock out, so if all you have is a steel hammer, just tap lightly.  If you think you might slip, put painters tape on the slide around where you're hammering to prevent scratches.
5. Once the pin is out (it doesn't have to come all the way out! Just enough that the firing pin is no longer trapped), the firing pin is free - almost!  Remember that firing pin block we talked about?  That's all that's holding the firing pin in.  Angle the slide so that the rear of the firing pin is facing downward, and press in on the firing pin block.  The firing pin should fall free, along with the firing pin spring.  Now the firing pin block should be able to fall free as well, along with the spring.
6.  Now replace the springs with the shiny new CGW units, and reassemble - put the firing pin block assembly in, then, while holding it up with your finger, slide the firing pin in.  Note that the flat spot/notches in the firing pin must be facing upwards - this notch is where the roll pin we tapped out earlier fits to retain the pin.
7. Once the pin is in place, push it forward from the rear, until you can see all the way through the roll pin hole (the rear of the pin should be about flush with the slide in that portion).  Now slide a punch or something of the appropriate diameter in that hole from the opposite of whichever side you plan to re-install the roll pin from.  This is to hold the firing pin in place while you tap the roll pin back in. 
8.  Once you've tapped the roll pin back in, you're all set!  Put the barrel and recoil spring back in, slide the slide back on the frame, reinstall the slide stop and enjoy your new trigger pull!!


I've typed that up very quickly and from memory, so let me know if you have any questions - I wish I had time to add pictures or make a video, but I'm swamped studying for finals and don't have the time at the moment.  I hope this helped at least a little, and good luck!
« Last Edit: May 05, 2014, 07:47:52 PM by p4R4d0x »

Offline p4R4d0x

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Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2014, 07:45:56 PM »
It's all pretty straight forward except for the hammer main spring.  The one that Cajun sent me was too large of a diameter, which caused binding against the mag brake.  I had to relieve a small portion of the mag brake to make it work.  Also, I left the firing block spring in the pistol and did not use the one that came with the Cajun kit.  Mine was smashed flat when I got it.  I really don't think it adds any appreciable weight to the DA.  The light weight of the firing pin spring made me a little nervous regarding reliability anyway.  Just make sure you have correct fitting punches (length and width) and take your time.  If not you may booger up the gun.

Paul

The firing pin spring isn't used to ignite primers, it actually pushes the pin rearward.  I think the lighter firing pin spring is likely to balance with the lightened hammer spring, so there is less force to overcome when the hammer encounters the firing pin.  It may have been necessary due to the reduced velocity/force/whatever of the hammer with the lighter spring, or it might have just been a precaution, who knows, but if you leave the stock firing pin spring with a lightened hammer spring, I think there would be a higher chance for unreliability than keeping these springs balanced.

Offline DexterGSP

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Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
« Reply #4 on: May 05, 2014, 07:51:09 PM »
It's all pretty straight forward except for the hammer main spring.  The one that Cajun sent me was too large of a diameter, which caused binding against the mag brake.  I had to relieve a small portion of the mag brake to make it work.  Also, I left the firing block spring in the pistol and did not use the one that came with the Cajun kit.  Mine was smashed flat when I got it.  I really don't think it adds any appreciable weight to the DA.  The light weight of the firing pin spring made me a little nervous regarding reliability anyway.  Just make sure you have correct fitting punches (length and width) and take your time.  If not you may booger up the gun.

Paul

The firing pin spring isn't used to ignite primers, it actually pushes the pin rearward.  I think the lighter firing pin spring is likely to balance with the lightened hammer spring, so there is less force to overcome when the hammer encounters the firing pin.  It may have been necessary due to the reduced velocity/force/whatever of the hammer with the lighter spring, or it might have just been a precaution, who knows, but if you leave the stock firing pin spring with a lightened hammer spring, I think there would be a higher chance for unreliability than keeping these springs balanced.

I agree!  I was referring to the firing block spring (proper terminology: firing pin block stop spring).  I didn't type it correctly on my first post.  My bad!
« Last Edit: May 05, 2014, 07:54:09 PM by DexterGSP »
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Offline p4R4d0x

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Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
« Reply #5 on: May 05, 2014, 07:55:38 PM »
It's all pretty straight forward except for the hammer main spring.  The one that Cajun sent me was too large of a diameter, which caused binding against the mag brake.  I had to relieve a small portion of the mag brake to make it work.  Also, I left the firing block spring in the pistol and did not use the one that came with the Cajun kit.  Mine was smashed flat when I got it.  I really don't think it adds any appreciable weight to the DA.  The light weight of the firing pin spring made me a little nervous regarding reliability anyway.  Just make sure you have correct fitting punches (length and width) and take your time.  If not you may booger up the gun.

Paul

The firing pin spring isn't used to ignite primers, it actually pushes the pin rearward.  I think the lighter firing pin spring is likely to balance with the lightened hammer spring, so there is less force to overcome when the hammer encounters the firing pin.  It may have been necessary due to the reduced velocity/force/whatever of the hammer with the lighter spring, or it might have just been a precaution, who knows, but if you leave the stock firing pin spring with a lightened hammer spring, I think there would be a higher chance for unreliability than keeping these springs balanced.

I agree!  I was referring to the firing block spring (proper terminology: firing pin block stop spring).

Whoops! I take it back, then. ;D 

Yeah it is definitely a very light spring.  I meant to experiment and see if I could actually tell the difference between the stock and CGW firing pin block springs, but it slipped my mind once I started putting things back together.

Offline DexterGSP

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Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
« Reply #6 on: May 05, 2014, 08:13:35 PM »
I'm positive that you will not notice any real difference on your finger (DA trigger pull).  Unfortunately my trigger scale only goes to 8 pounds so I couldn't test the DA pull.  I just don't like the idea of that ultra-light spring.  If grime or a small piece of debris gets caught in between the slide and the firing pin block stop it could potentially freeze up the stop.  I just felt a little better having the stock spring in.

Paul
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Offline DexterGSP

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Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
« Reply #7 on: May 05, 2014, 08:17:26 PM »
By the way, thanks for taking the time to write up the instructions to replace the springs.  If it's not a sticky it should be.  :)

Paul
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Offline p4R4d0x

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Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
« Reply #8 on: May 05, 2014, 08:28:15 PM »
I'm positive that you will not notice any real difference on your finger (DA trigger pull).  Unfortunately my trigger scale only goes to 8 pounds so I couldn't test the DA pull.  I just don't like the idea of that ultra-light spring.  If grime or a small piece of debris gets caught in between the slide and the firing pin block stop it could potentially freeze up the stop.  I just felt a little better having the stock spring in.

Paul

I agree on the DA pull - you definitely won't notice it there.  The only place you might is the take-up on the SA pull? It would be a minor difference though, and for a gun that will ever get carried or be depended on for defense, I'm definitely on the same page about not wanting an ultra-light spring in there. 

By the way, thanks for taking the time to write up the instructions to replace the springs.  If it's not a sticky it should be.  :)

Paul

No problem!  :)  I learn so much on this and other forums; I try to give back when I can.  If people think it's useful, and/or if there isn't already something that fills that void, I'll gladly add pictures or video to accompany the text after my last exam on Wednesday.

Offline chrisp51

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Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
« Reply #9 on: May 15, 2014, 06:38:51 PM »
Thanks for all the help.  I got the springs changed and it made a big difference in the trigger pull.  I ordered another set of springs for my 75B.

Offline jwc007

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Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
« Reply #10 on: May 15, 2014, 07:54:53 PM »
  If it's not a sticky it should be.  :)

Done!
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Offline Farmerbob

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Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
« Reply #11 on: May 15, 2014, 08:19:27 PM »
Does the spring kit improve both DA and SA trigger pull, or just the DA?

Many thanks.

Offline p4R4d0x

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Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
« Reply #12 on: May 16, 2014, 04:52:05 PM »
  If it's not a sticky it should be.  :)

Done!

Oh cool, I got a sticky! I guess that means I'll have to add pictures.  ;D  Will try to get to it this weekend, terry_mc's thread has some that cover some/most/(all?) of this in the meantime.


Does the spring kit improve both DA and SA trigger pull, or just the DA?

Many thanks.


Both, but the biggest improvement is in the DA by far.
« Last Edit: May 17, 2014, 08:15:17 PM by p4R4d0x »

Offline chrisp51

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Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
« Reply #13 on: May 17, 2014, 07:58:30 PM »
Does the spring kit improve both DA and SA trigger pull, or just the DA?

Many thanks.

The spring kit reduced both DA and SA pull.

Offline terry mc

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Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
« Reply #14 on: May 19, 2014, 09:17:25 PM »
It's all pretty straight forward except for the hammer main spring.  The one that Cajun sent me was too large of a diameter, which caused binding against the mag brake.  I had to relieve a small portion of the mag brake to make it work.  Also, I left the firing block spring in the pistol and did not use the one that came with the Cajun kit.  Mine was smashed flat when I got it.  I really don't think it adds any appreciable weight to the DA.  The light weight of the firing pin spring made me a little nervous regarding reliability anyway.  Just make sure you have correct fitting punches (length and width) and take your time.  If not you may booger up the gun.

Paul

The firing pin spring isn't used to ignite primers, it actually pushes the pin rearward.  I think the lighter firing pin spring is likely to balance with the lightened hammer spring, so there is less force to overcome when the hammer encounters the firing pin.  It may have been necessary due to the reduced velocity/force/whatever of the hammer with the lighter spring, or it might have just been a precaution, who knows, but if you leave the stock firing pin spring with a lightened hammer spring, I think there would be a higher chance for unreliability than keeping these springs balanced.

I agree!  I was referring to the firing block spring (proper terminology: firing pin block stop spring).

Whoops! I take it back, then. ;D 

Yeah it is definitely a very light spring.  I meant to experiment and see if I could actually tell the difference between the stock and CGW firing pin block springs, but it slipped my mind once I started putting things back together.
Here are my thoughts on the firing pin block spring.
I think that the lighter spring really only reduces the trigger stacking in the feel, when used with the CGW hammer/sear.
Once I had completed polishing the trigger action, I found the firing pin block to be more noticeable in single action due less pretravel resistance.

Remember the stock sear has the FPB lifter dovetailed into sear so there is no stacking on pretravel.
So in essence I agree that you are unlikely to notice a difference with a stock sear.
Terry Mc
G.B. CZ-97BE-SA
CZ Scorpion CZ Custom Trigger Pack, Streamlight TLR-1HL Primary Arms MD-ADS
75B polished stainless  (wifes, pure stock for now)
RAMI safety model (CGW springs, Shadow hammer & sear, polished act., tritium sites)
TRISTAR C-100 (CGW & polished act. tritium sites)