Author Topic: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation  (Read 18230 times)

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Offline MDIWeapon

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Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
« Reply #15 on: December 13, 2014, 02:49:26 PM »
Does the spring kit improve both DA and SA trigger pull, or just the DA?

Many thanks.


As others have stated above, the spring kit improved the DA pull considerably (it is at least 40-50% lighter as CGW states on their website) and there was a noticeable improvement in the SA pull. With just the spring swap, the SA pull on the Shark-C I was working on dropped to just a hair below 5 pounds. I have not polished up any of the internal parts so it will be a bit better after that. The CGW spring kit is definitely worth the $17 they charge for it. I would expect about the same results in a C100 -- I may have to pick one of those up next week and find out. :)

Offline EvilWayz

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Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
« Reply #16 on: May 10, 2016, 01:51:39 PM »
Does anyone know if an SRS-1 kit will work in a Jericho 941 frame safety pistol?

Offline Boriqua

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Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
« Reply #17 on: August 03, 2016, 02:29:44 PM »
well I broke it! I was installing the kit but the Mag leaf spring just wouldn't go back to its ordinal position and with very little encouragement it snapped at the bend on the bottom nearest the slide. Now the gun still works properly and I cant see what the leaf spring was supposed to have done. I have a whole bunch of similar thickness spring steel so I can fabricate a new one but ... what is it for and yes I know they put it in for a reason but do I need it? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am hoping to take this out to the range on friday.

Offline jwc007

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Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
« Reply #18 on: August 03, 2016, 05:36:10 PM »
well I broke it! I was installing the kit but the Mag leaf spring just wouldn't go back to its ordinal position and with very little encouragement it snapped at the bend on the bottom nearest the slide. Now the gun still works properly and I cant see what the leaf spring was supposed to have done. I have a whole bunch of similar thickness spring steel so I can fabricate a new one but ... what is it for and yes I know they put it in for a reason but do I need it? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am hoping to take this out to the range on friday.

The Magazine Retention Spring, which is what I believe you are talking about, can be removed to allow Magazines to drop more freely during a Reload.  I removed them from my old late pre-B Cz75 and pre-Series 88 Tz75's and ran them without issue.  Never put them back in, even prior to sale.

For some Pistols it's just a mechanism cover plate.  It would be helpful to know just what handgun you are working on.
« Last Edit: August 03, 2016, 05:39:26 PM by jwc007 »
"Easy is the path to wisdom for those not blinded by ego." - Yoda


For all of those killed by a 9mm: "Get up! You are not dead! You were shot with a useless cartridge!"

Offline Boriqua

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Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
« Reply #19 on: August 03, 2016, 05:40:23 PM »
Alright I fixed it!!
So I bought this kit
https://cajungunworks.com/product/39250/

For my nifty new T 100

It is not a very complicated install right up until I had to reinstall the mag brake. It is seemingly fabricated of pringles potato chips except it might be a bit more brittle. I DID NOT apply a lot of force and the hook where it goes around the upper pin just broke off. It was way long so I thought I could bend another hook into it but ... it snapped. I found a wonderful video online of a drop free mod for anyone that wants to see it is here



From what I could gather it is designed in such a way so that the mag does NOT drop free. It puts tension in the form of a leaf spring on the back of the mag. You can certainly run the gun without it but then there is a danger I guess of damaging the hammer spring if you are speed loading mags since there is nothing between the mag and the hammer strut. In my other guns including my P 07 the hammer spring and strut are at least somewhat protected. I kind of like that little bit of tension so I designed my brake with just a bit of flex instead of going completely flat but you can certainly pull that crappy mag brake out and use flat steel of the proper thickness.

Years ago a friend gave me a giant spool of thin spring steel that he uses in his industry and I have been happily cutting out my thumb breaks from it for the few holsters with thumb breaks I get asked to do. It is 3 inches wide and the spool will get passed down to grandkids and was used in industrial garage doors. It is very tough, very springy, easy to grind on with a dremel wheel but not easily bent into tight radius's. Its really nice steel and kills anything I can buy as ready made thumb breaks.

I managed with some real effort to get a nice tight bend for the pin at the bottom and I am calling this an upgrade ... especially since its gold!  :)





Other than that  .. double action is AWESOME and trigger pull from half cock is just amazing now compared to what it was. Without overselling it ... from the half cock feels as good as MANY guns I have had shooting in single action. I dont have a scale but it really does almost feel single action from the half cock. $24 shipped priority and some fumbling around in the gun was well worth it.

You need a 1/8 punch for the slide to get the firing pin out and the 3/32 for the pin that holds the break. The pin that holds the hammer spring is near irrelevant since once you unweighted it the pin pushes out readily. The only other thing I would add if you can is a 3/16 in wood dowel to depress the Hammer spring.

Special Plunger tool



Now here is to fingers crossed for no light primer strikes when I go out friday !!!
« Last Edit: August 04, 2016, 03:46:47 AM by Boriqua »

Offline Batuche

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Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
« Reply #20 on: September 12, 2017, 02:19:35 PM »
First, thanks for all the posts on this - very helpful and informative.

I’m posting to share my experience and frustration with a glitch in this modification, not to disparage the CGW SPGK1 3 Piece Spring Kit which I believe does exactly what it is advertised and intended to do, or to contradict any other posts. For clarity I used the parts terminology found on the schematic.

As an admitted novice at gunsmithing I feel obligated to submit that the CGW SPGK1 3 Piece Spring Kit for the Canik/Tristar C100 may not be the cake walk you think, and caution that for the uninitiated it could add up to some degree of frustration, failure, or both. Therefore I strongly suggest that if you feel the least bit uncomfortable doing this yourself you should seriously consider having CGW or a reputable gunsmith perform this modification for you.

Great instructions can be found for this procedure in this earlier
post by p4R4d0x
  Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
  « Reply #2 on: May 05, 2014, 07:41:23 PM »

I wish to expand on another earlier
post by DexterGSP who identified the CGW hammer spring size problem
  Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
  « Reply #1 on: May 05, 2014, 07:31:18 PM »

I would also like to know how the replacement Flat Spring was made to fit around the blue Hammer Spring bec it’s hard to see in the picture (a great mod, BTW)
post by Boriqua
Re: Cajun Gun Works SPGK1 spring kit installation
« Reply #19 on: August 03, 2016, 05:40:23 PM »

My frustration stems specifically from the CGW Hammer Spring replacement portion of the installation. YMMV.

To accomplish the Hammer Spring replacement I created a crude help by drilling a couple 1/4” holes in a flat piece of wood then cut off two different lengths of 1/4” dowel rod and jammed them into the holes allowing two different amounts of dowel rod to stick out; one sticks out above the surface 3/16” and the other 3/8” because I wasn’t sure what length would work best. I did this so I could center the Hammer Spring Plug over either piece of dowel and then press the pistol frame down to suppress the plug during installation of the Flat Spring. This sort of worked but the pistol too easily slipping off the dowel so I should have tried another method, but I’m too old and stubborn and persisted with what I had in my mind at that moment which finally did the job. Why a 1/4” dowel? Because that’s what I had available.

Following the instructions by p4R4d0x to the point where you have removed the Main Spring Plug Pin, Hammer Spring Plug, Flat Spring, and stock Hammer Spring, you will then proceed to replace the stock Hammer Spring with the blue CGW 13# Hammer Spring taking care to slide the new spring back over the Main Spring Slut where it originally came from, then slide the Hammer Spring Plug back over the Hammer Spring with the slot facing inward toward the handle.

Now comes the part which caused my extreme frustration.

Before first attempting the CGW Hammer Spring replacement I removed and then reinstalled the original Flat and Hammer springs for practice just to make sure I could do it and I did, however I wasn’t looking forward to doing this a second time but set upon the task with the new blue CGW Hammer Spring because it was there. 

In order to reinsert the tiny bent or hook end of the Flat Spring back into the Hammer Spring Plug, you must force the plug back into the hole on the bottom of the grip while at the same time compressing and preventing the new blue spring from bending/bulging too far forward into the grip (SPROING) thus deforming itself which it may want to do because this spring is longer and perhaps softer than the original and the gap between the plug and the slut is initially wide enough to allow it. This happened to me the first time I attempted this step which resulted in a deformed CGW Hammer Spring. After a few whining emails to CGW they most graciously sent me a new Hammer Spring but I don’t believe they’re anxious to make a habit of this. 

So, with the new blue Hammer Spring in place continue to press the plug into the hole to the point where the top of it nearly meets the end of the Main Spring Slut, at first restraining the blue spring from bulging out with a finger so it doesn’t do a forward SPROING. By this time the Hammer Spring is compressed to the point where there is no more space for it to go SPROING forward, however it is also at this very moment that you will need to finagle the bent hook end of the Flat Spring back into the slot in the Hammer Spring Plug and seat the flat metal Flat Spring end into the narrow slots on the bottom of the frame.

This drill is minimally a three handed feat because you will need to bend the Flat Spring and force it down into place while your other two hands are already quite busy enough. If you perchance succeed in getting this far with only two hands you will now release pressure on the Hammer Spring Plug just far enough to reinsert the Main Spring Plug Pin which holds it all in place.

Whew! Time to pause for a rewarding refreshment if you got this far. This was quite a goat rope for me but for those with the proper tools and talents it should prove a much simpler task.

But I digress. I got this far only to learn that with the CGW Hammer Spring in place the Flat Spring wouldn’t fully seat itself into the narrow slot along the sides of the Main Spring Plug. Why? Because the CGW Hammer Spring is too wide/fat in diameter and therefore impedes the Flat Spring from fully seating into the slot, the end result being too much bow in the Flat Spring which in turn places too much pressure/drag on the magazine so the magazine will not eject and will need to be pulled out manually. ARGH! Just when you thought you were finished! I was not expecting this installation to alter the mag release.

There was maybe a 1/32” gap left between the bottom of the Flat Spring and the bottom of the slot which in retrospect could have been because the bent hook on the Flat Spring somehow got straightened out in my many attempts to seat it with the plug popping out. Then the tip of the hook might have touched the bottom of the plug before the flats were seated.

At this point you will have experienced the second frustrating affect of your new blue 13# Hammer Spring being both longer and wider/fatter in diameter than the original.

After a combination of wiggling/pressing/massaging the Flat Spring from different angles and directions with my finger and a thin blade screw driver, plus a good amount of dry firing, my magazine dropped better but still too much drag for my liking. 

I understand that CZ pistols/clones can operate just fine without any Flat Spring but it’s there for a reason and I didn’t want to go through the process of pin/plug/spring/spring removal again.

I removed the top pin holding the Flat Spring and then experimented bending it where it was dragging on the magazine with the help of a flashlight to identify the contact points.  I had to bend it in several places and through trial and error finally arrived at the place I wanted to be. Problem solved! I was elated plus learned I could adjust from any amount of drag on the Flat Spring to none at all.

The second part of this installation went smooth as silk as both the Firing Pin Spring and Firing Block Plunger Spring are easily removed and replaced with the CGW ones.  Just follow the instructions provided by p4R4d0x.

I used a standard yellow Stanley 3/32 standard tapered punch to begin driving the roll pin out — a couple of good hammer taps got it moving — then I switched to a 3mm roll pin punch to drive the pin further out otherwise the standard tapered punch would have become stuck in the hole which would not have been a good thing. I drove the roll pin about three quarters of the way out and then began alternately tapping and removing the punch in stages until the firing pin was free and popped out. I left the roll pin in place without driving it all the way out and replaced the springs.

Upon reassembly remember to push and hold the Firing Pin all the way in before driving the roll pin back in or else you will damage the firing pin.

To accomplish this I ran a 3/32” pin punch (not the 3/32” Stanley) into the hole opposite the roll pin which allowed me to line up and hold the Firing Pin in place and out of harm’s way while I drove the roll pin back into place from the other side of the slide which pushed the pin punch out on its way through. 

FINAL RESULT: A MUCH improved DA pull (I’m guessing a good 40%) and I do believe a slightly improved SA pull as well, but I have no gauge to test that. I’m in high clover now with an inexpensive CGW fix (pending future success at the range) thanks to excellent CGW customer service.   


QUESTIONS:

Any long term reports using this spring kit?

Can the Tristar/Canik Hammer Spring Plug be swapped out for a CZ 75 Lanyard Loop MS Plug?
https://czcustom.com/cz-parts-all/main-spring-plugs/cz-75-full-size-loop-ms-plug.html   =  $9




« Last Edit: September 13, 2017, 01:45:41 PM by Batuche »