13lb/100%

[handgun2]

all good points.. glad everyone thinking a bit about this.. as of today,, 250 rnds.. no issues. first strike 100%.   yes, trigger is 'slightly heavier' than when 13lbs minus spacer. but the break is the same with a CGW race hammer, crisp, no creep. 

per my tool an die days... yes.. adds PRE-load tension.. and MAY shorten spring life (reasonable), but still is can be very effective in the right application.   

I really feel allowing a mere .032-.035" (thousands of an inch, to those not familiar.. human hair about .003-.004" thick) is the key here.  I haven't had time to check if I can go to .045" deep on backbore and then remove spacer.   seems interesting doesn't it w/ a stock CGW slightly pre loaded 13lbs spring?.    the transfer of energy is crucial to my mind.   allowance for transfer of kept energy via a slightly longer contact period b/t hammer and firing pin seem to be the key.. I can't get away from that aspect.   adding pre-load to hammer spring is a basic in tool/die performance day to day stuff... why over purchase a springs.. if a bit, small amount of pre-load works..   again.. maybe a 14lb or or a back bored retainer to .045 with a 13lb spring is the 'magic' ....  don't know.. 

I just know what I have works.. easily and fine.. replacement on main springs is relatively cheap. for what I get. reliable fire first strike on all .22lr ammo tried thus far..  and crisp break..

and kudos to JoeL...  still uncleaned. post 800rnds. and counting.

peace to all,
K in MI

please, everyone keep checking stuff out.. I think we on a reasonable break thru. 

[painter]

I'm not an engineer so I'll probably get flamed for this, but a spring does not change in rate from adding preload. Rate is determined by wire diameter and length. What changes is the force required to start the spring compressing. Once in motion it has exactly the same rate. This can be seen in the real world with suspension springs. A stiffer spring with less preload can often give a smoother ride than a softer spring with added preload because of the added force required to start it moving.

Exactly what effect it has on a given spring rate that is in compression, I'm not sure. It might very well operate similarly by exerting more force upon release.

[1SOW]

FWIW:  According to Wolf,  springs are measured simply on a post at the "preload" length in the pistol and then compressed to the minimum length the slide compresses it.

I made a crude model using a a steel rod and known weights to see what it took to fully compress the spring to the same same length the pistol does.  Although crude it was likely within an ounce or two.  All those spare parts UNlknown weightsprings can be checked "practically" close.

[handgun2]

please,

for all of us with Kadet's.... keep this moving forward.. I think we all onto something.  schmecky? you around? reading? thinking? joe and Den? jon?   

I think we are closer than ever.

respectfully,
k

[handgun2]

sorry for the delay.. been playing ALOT w/ my first 1911... lots of fun! 

anyways,  just fired another 200rnds 0% failure on first strikes!  and yes, as noted by joe and others,  when I change over to my .40 slide,, the trigger feels 'heavier' than it used too.. but identical to the trigger I have been using on the Kadet.. no appreciative change in accuracy on DA first pull noted thus far..  (I have left everything as I have reported before.. no changes since that time).   

So,  I think someone should make some Delron bushings or similar and try in their  Kadet!  mine is working but looks ugly on the inside w/ the washers all stacked up.  I don't have access to machine shop equipment anymore.. so I'd gladly buy one from someone.

cheers
K in MI

[tessitori]

sorry for the delay.. been playing ALOT w/ my first 1911... lots of fun! 

anyways,  just fired another 200rnds 0% failure on first strikes!  and yes, as noted by joe and others,  when I change over to my .40 slide,, the trigger feels 'heavier' than it used too.. but identical to the trigger I have been using on the Kadet.. no appreciative change in accuracy on DA first pull noted thus far..  (I have left everything as I have reported before.. no changes since that time).   

So,  I think someone should make some Delron bushings or similar and try in their  Kadet!  mine is working but looks ugly on the inside w/ the washers all stacked up.  I don't have access to machine shop equipment anymore.. so I'd gladly buy one from someone.

cheers
K in MI

If you give me the dimensions needed for the bushings and a drawing i will have some made by my machinist! 

[handgun2]

thanks for the offer!   I actually still know some great tool makers in the industry (me a journeyman x 24yrs), so  I got it covered.. just takes more time than doing it myself.

please, others try!  give some feedback.  it is working great for me. I can't be the only one.

cheers
K in MI

[painter]

Kevin,

Does your bolt make contact with the housing at the front, or is there a gap?

See this post... http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=39826.msg221907#msg221907

[handgun2]

no, my KK fits flush.. however I did reshape the guide rod projection to allow my KK to allow it to fit flush and bottom out.  That was done apx. 1.5 yrs ago when I started my my 'tweaking' of the Kadet to get reliable firing.

The other issue most don't look for, is to check to make sure the Hammer will actually lay flat against the striking surface.. some Kadets slide's are 'overbuilt' on that surface and don't allow for a full hammer strike and lay flat against the hammer pin/surface.

cheers,
K

my reliability now is 100%,  with my 13lb main spring and CGW race hammer.

[painter]

Mine has a gap, but no signs of the recoil spring seat/guide rod projection being the issue.

Where did yours hit?