John
John read the thread, your questions ARE already answered in my previous posts which were already confirmed as being correct by Czechpoint, Ohio Ordnance and Marcolmar.
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John, sorry about that last reply. WE exchanged PMs previous and I realize now that your pressing in a new barrel. That is why your asking about tape and the field gauge type tolerance. If you'll remember I sent you a link to the "Project Guns" web site which describes step by step how to build the gun, including how to set the barrel. That procedure is prob your best bet. You might be able to reach out to them if there is contact information on that site ( and if they are still in business).
Please post a summary of your experience setting the initial headspace and pinning the barrel. I'm sure others would benefit from the success or challenges of your work.
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Pete,
You have been most helpful. The link to the assembly is simply great. All around, many thanks to you.
I thought I was having many more senior moments than usual after i read your reply and went back and rertead the thread. Turns out I had neglected to check the reply notice button so much of it was new but on a familiar topic. Not that I am senior moment free cause I ain't.
I have decided to press in the barrel with a 4 foot lever arm in a receiver holding fixture welded to a welding table. My "interference fit" is around .5 to 1 thousandths. Heating the receiver I can slip the barrel in about 1/4 inch with ease and i think I am on my way to success. If it binds and stops during the press operation there is always the option of "getting" a hydraulic press. I already have the barrel vice on the shelf.
Thank you Pete and all others as well,
John
My receiver has no "grooves" in it that would "stop" the barrel insertion at the correct head-space. I will insert the bolt carrier and bolt and use a "GO GAUGE" for the stop. My thinking is that a sharp rap with my brass hammer at the "stop" position will "seat" the barrel perfectly against the gauge if needed.
My Go-Gauge has the center relieved to prevent the firing pin impacting the solid steel gauge. I have seated the bolt on the Gauge and the extractor has engaged and ejected the "cartridge" easily. Is it really needed to disassemble the bolt for this operation?
As I said, "I have a NO-GO gauge". My sweet riunning 58 will run with indication yet the NO-GO gauge inserts and the bolt closes and the trigger releases the striker. I am not fully comfortable with that condition. I really want to avoid the expense of a "FIELD GAUGE" if possible and that is why6 i continue to harp on the number of thousandths I need to add to either a GO or NO_GO gauge to "make" a FIELD GAUGE. I haven't been able to find that info in the thread. It is
?
Thank you Pete and all that have helped.