Author Topic: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD  (Read 34958 times)

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SPO1SHADOW

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #15 on: July 17, 2016, 10:22:40 AM »
I am finished with the beaver tail. I will refine the lines when I sand the frame for browning. There is not enough material to do an upswept beaver tail but you can make it much more comfortable to shoot by getting rid of the sharp edge that comes on the standard frame from the factory. To me this is just as comfortable as my Shadow with no sharp edge eating into my hand. The blending and shaping to make things perfectly equal on both sides takes some time but is well worth the effort in the end.




Online Stuart

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #16 on: July 17, 2016, 10:43:41 AM »
Nice beginning. This will be good.

Offline Rhino

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #17 on: July 17, 2016, 10:48:01 AM »
That's good work brother.

SPO1SHADOW

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #18 on: July 17, 2016, 10:57:57 AM »
My Son asked for a low profile adjustable target sight. I could not locate an LPA sight made for the standard CZ 75 so instead I am fitting an LPA LPTS made for the Shadow. I had to file down the rib behind the sight dovetail so the LPA sight could bottom out and because the Shadow version does not come with a locking set screw I will fit and mount the rear sight with 620 Loctite so there will be no chance of it coming loose.


I decided to take away just a little extra so there was no chance that the blade would contact the slide in the lowest position. This should provide a little extra insurance and sight longevity.


Now filing the sight base with a 60 degree safety file until the sight will just slide in half way.


The sight is driven into place with a soft aluminum punch with the end covered in 4 coats of painter's tape to keep the aluminum off of the sight. This sight went on very tight with a perfect fit into the dove tail. You will notice that there is ample room now to bottom out the sight.

« Last Edit: July 17, 2016, 12:42:54 PM by SPO1SHADOW »

SPO1SHADOW

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #19 on: July 17, 2016, 11:32:05 AM »
The full length guide rod hole is done.

Offline gwvt

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #20 on: July 17, 2016, 12:02:00 PM »
Your work is inspiring - thanks for posting!

Offline lowcountrySC

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #21 on: July 17, 2016, 12:30:33 PM »
Sorry to get off topic from this incredible build, but would you mind sharing the tools you are using for the rebuild? Especially anything you have found to be extremely useful like when you mentioned the holder from CZC.

Offline Kenneth

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #22 on: July 17, 2016, 01:17:43 PM »
This is awesome.


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SPO1SHADOW

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #23 on: July 17, 2016, 01:32:38 PM »
Most of my hand tools are Snap-on or Mac. I truly believe that tools are an investment so I will wait at times until I can afford to buy a good quality, expensive tool rather than buy one from the local discount house. Coming from the service industry in my younger days I have had and seen many busted knuckles and injuries that came from using cheap junk. That being said, what I use most working with guns are files, punches, hammers and I would guess my most used tool would be a Dremel type tool. I have never found a "Dremel" brand moto tool that would hold up under the use I give them, they are expensive and not worth the investment. I have tried every offering they have and found them wanting in the end. My replacement for the Dremel is the Black & Decker RTX, it is cheap enough that I can buy 2 of them for the price of 1 high end Dremel and I am still using the first one I purchased 6 years ago. Next would be a padded vice like a Wilton 5" model with a set of Bessy magnetic soft jaw inserts.
I use punches a lot and I have Snap-on and Mayhew, the hammers I use for gunsmithing are generally brass headed and are purchased from Brownell's. All the files I have are also purchased from Brownell's and most of the crowning reamers and cutters I have also came from them. So giving you that information you would probably do well with a good set of punches, a starter punch from GCW, one of CZ custom's bench blocks, a ten once brass hammer, a good set of pics, some good quality sand paper-80 thru 2000 grit, a good set of hollow ground screw drivers for flats and a quality set of Phillips head drivers, a Dremel type moto tool, a good quality set of polishing, grinding and cutting bits for this tool, a good set of brass punches with at least one large brass and steel drift to remove stubborn sights, a good quality 5 or 6" vice like a Wilton brand, Drill press, a good hand drill and a very good quality set of drill bits and don't forget the Flitz used for polishing and hand fitting slides. Dychem comes in handy when fitting, a high quality digital caliper is used quite a bit also. I am sure there are more but these are the ones I use most. The main thing to remember is you get what you pay for and generally a little less so buy the best you can afford and they will last a lifetime instead of a week.
« Last Edit: February 02, 2017, 05:25:13 AM by SPO1SHADOW »

Offline DOC 1500

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #24 on: July 17, 2016, 01:58:36 PM »
Why are you finishing with 400 and not 800 or 1000 for a smoother finish or are you leaving the Finish a little rough so there is something for the paint to grab onto.
JOHN 3:16
2 COR.5:17
A Lie is a Lie even if everybody believes it ,
The Truth is the Truth even if nobody believes it !!!

SPO1SHADOW

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #25 on: July 17, 2016, 02:02:58 PM »
I am browning the frame. The best finish for the process is 400 grit. The slide will be polished to a high luster on a polishing wheel but the frame must not be finished any higher than 400 for the best results.

Offline DOC 1500

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #26 on: July 17, 2016, 02:28:04 PM »
Why are you finishing with 400 and not 800 or 1000. Or are you just leaving it a little rough for something for the paint to grab ahold of.
JOHN 3:16
2 COR.5:17
A Lie is a Lie even if everybody believes it ,
The Truth is the Truth even if nobody believes it !!!

SPO1SHADOW

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #27 on: July 17, 2016, 02:29:06 PM »
The last thing I am going to do today is the undercut where the trigger guard meets the grip frame. It is very easy to get carried away on this modification and this is the one I see screwed up more that any other frame modification. It should be done so that there is enough metal removed so your hand can get a higher grip on the gun but should be done subtle enough that is does not stick out like a sore thumb. I removed right at 1/8" of metal at the junction and spent the last 2 hours blending it back in which removed quite a bit more metal. I will address the lines next week when I sand the frame. I used the B&D moto tool with a fine grade sanding drum to do the rough blending, a round file to remove most of the metal and 180 grit paper on a wooden dowel to get rid of all the main sanding and file marks. I will start the metal finishing and the action work next weekend.
« Last Edit: July 17, 2016, 03:00:55 PM by SPO1SHADOW »

SPO1SHADOW

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #28 on: July 17, 2016, 02:32:27 PM »
Why are you finishing with 400 and not 800 or 1000. Or are you just leaving it a little rough for something for the paint to grab ahold of.

I am browning the frame. The best finish for the process is 400 grit. The slide will be polished to a high luster on a polishing wheel but the frame must not be finished any higher than 400 grit for the best results, it would be the same for rust bluing.

Offline SlvrDragon50

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #29 on: July 17, 2016, 04:11:03 PM »
Dang. I want a custom CZ from you! Haha.

 

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