Brownell's Aluma-Hyde ll

[Tenbones]

Any one have any experience with this?  I'm thinking of doing the plastic on my Scorpion and am looking for something relatively simple yet durable.

[Rhino]

I used it on a 1911 and then baked it at 225 degrees for about 2 1/2 hours after it cured for 24 hrs. If you don't bake it (don't bake the plastic) it needs to cure for a few days just let it dry in the garage, shop, etc. After it cures it's durable.

[milq]

It's tough stuff if applied properly and cured as Rhino mentioned. I've hit is with a 40 watt laser and like the results, Duracoat just burns right off but Alumahyde stays put with some discoloration. I'm working on creating a digital camo pattern and using it as the base, with the laser creating different shades based on the power level.

At full power on OD green Alumahyde, you get the subdued look anywhere the laser hits it, just like the green subdued flags on U.S. Military uniforms. Looks pretty sweet.

[Tenbones]

It's tough stuff if applied properly and cured as Rhino mentioned. I've hit is with a 40 watt laser and like the results, Duracoat just burns right off but Alumahyde stays put with some discoloration. I'm working on creating a digital camo pattern and using it as the base, with the laser creating different shades based on the power level.

At full power on OD green Alumahyde, you get the subdued look anywhere the laser hits it, just like the green subdued flags on U.S. Military uniforms. Looks pretty sweet.

Sounds interesting....you'll have to post some pictures when you get the chance. 

[oldfrank]

Some Co-Workers of mine were big into building FAL rifles when the good kits were available and they all used this process along with the baking.

I have seen and shot several of the rifles they built and they looked good and shot well too.

They had no complaints with the product.

[jetcycles]

I'm running alumahyde on the slide of my CZ82 with no complaints given the time and money invested.  I coated a brand new yeti tumbler with alumahyde in order to really put this stuff through its paces on a daily basis and I must say that I've been impressed.  I did not bake it on, but I did let it cute properly for about 10 days due to the humidity around here.  It's finally starting to show some wear after 6 months of daily use, but most of that wear is directly related to neglect/abuse (throwing the cup onto a rocky river bank, letting it roll around in the truck bed, etc).  I wouldn't hesitate to use it on a weapon.  PREP WORK IS KEY!


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[RNA]

Would you do a light sanding for prep, or just clean and degrease? And if sanding, what grit? I'm planning on doing a diy camo job on my Canik TP9 SA.

[Rhino]

On my 1911 I cleaned/degreased it, wiped it dry with acetone, masked off what I needed to and started coating light thin coats. After 4 coats I let it cure for 24 +/- hours and then baked it. My 1911 has a steel slide and an aluminum alloy frame.

[krazyukrainian]

I have used it on about 4 ak's with the directed 30 day in a 70 degree temperature enviroment dry. The finish comes out great and is TOUGH AS NAILS!

Things you need
1. Brake Cleaner
2. Rubbing Alcohol
3. Face Mask (Tied up old socks work)
4. Brownell's Aluma-Hyde ll
5. Heat Gun
6. Patience

My Process.

1. Lightly sand the entire surface using 200 grit. Not to bare metal but enough to cause a rougher surface.
2. Hang the gun in the garage like a butcher would a pig (Use some kind of rope and put 2 zip ties on the bottom of this rope)
3. Heatgun the crap out of the gun (Get's all oil to seap out of crevices)
4. Use brake cleaner to strip all oil and anything else on gun. (Don't touch the gun after this)
5. Heatgun the crap out of the gun to remove all brake cleaner and make the rifle nice and hot for sticky pleasure
6. Shake can vigorously for 4 minutes (Practice with Shake-Weight)
7. Spray about 12 inch's away from the surface a light coat
8. Wipe the nozzle with a rag soaked in rubbing alcohol (You must do this after each spray)
9. Heat up the coat from about 12 inchs away moving all over the rifle slowly on a low setting.
10. Wait 8 minutes, then shake can for another 2 minutes.
11. Repeat steps 6-9 so you have a total of 3 or 4 coats.
12. Let it sit in your garage hanging for an hour or so (Your wife will be mad at the toxicity you have caused inside the garage)
13. Carefully put your finger in the first zip tie closest to your gun and support the weight.
14. Cut the zip tie above it to release it from your ceiling.
15. transport it with your finger into a nice closet inside the house and hang it in the closet (your children will need to sleep somewhere else)
16. Set a reminder on your phone for 30 days from the day you painted and forget that you even own the gun.
17. After 30 days, cut the gun from the closit pole and enjoy a bulletproof paintjob.

[painter]

The painter in me wonders why you wait a month for a product the manufacturer says takes a week to fully cure?

Have you had experience that contradicts the recommendations?

[krazyukrainian]

From personal experience it is not fully cured at 2 weeks. It is an epoxy based paint and i have gotten the best results by being patient and waiting 30 days. I have had to redo parts from handling/installing them prematurely. If you are willing to risk it by all means go for it but for me waiting the full 30 gives me a piece of mind that it will 100% be fully cured after 30 days.

[MetalGravy]

Hmm, I kind of want to use the clear one to rust-proof the bluing on my CZ-83.  I would need to detail-strip the gun before hand, correct?

[krazyukrainian]

Yes to get all the oil out of all the tight spots

[painter]

From personal experience it is not fully cured at 2 weeks. It is an epoxy based paint and i have gotten the best results by being patient and waiting 30 days. I have had to redo parts from handling/installing them prematurely. If you are willing to risk it by all means go for it but for me waiting the full 30 gives me a piece of mind that it will 100% be fully cured after 30 days.

I'd suggest that if the paint isn't cured after a week, as stated by the manufacturer, then either the temperature/humidity parameters are out of whack, the mix ratio is incorrect, or the product isn't anything I'd use.

[MetalGravy]

Yes to get all the oil out of all the tight spots

Hmm, considering the trouble I had reassembling my 82 (bleep sear spring), I might have to pass.