Well, an update to the GII and it's "issues."
I'd ordered a YHM free float tube to replace that big old factory quadrail. When it came in, the issues started.
Gas block set screws were glued in with a gray substance call rock set. But they came loose without breaking the allen wrench or stripping the head out of the screws.
Quad rail was glued to the barrel nut with rock set. Gouged it up some at the rear hammering on the big wrench used to tighten/loosen quadrails.
The jamb nut for the quad rail was also glued to the barrel nut with rock set. The wrench wouldn't budge it. Finally got out a chisel and hammer and broke it loose, with some surface damage to the notch I set the chisel in.
I'd hoped to screw the new YHM free float tube onto the factory barrel nut but they have different threads.
The barrel nut came loose (no rock set, imagine that) but the barrel nut wrench broke up the little holes in the front that the pins of the wrench fit into . Had to reposition the wrench several times to get now holes for the pins. Did have to use a hammer on the wrench to break it loose though.
In order to get the barrel nut off the gas block had to come off. In order to get the gas block off I'd have to take the flash suppressor off. I couldn't budge the flash suppressor with the barrel clamped into a big bench vise wrapped in leather. The big wrench mashed the flash suppressor flats some.
I ordered the AAC tool used to install/remove that style flash suppressor. When it came in I clamped the barrel back in the vise and put the tool in my Snap On battery impact wrench and couldn't budge it. I got the heat gun and put enough heat on the flash suppressor that the barrel 5" away was uncomfortably hot and the Snap On still wouldn't budge the flash suppressor. I got the 1/2 air powered impact wrench and tried it and it would just slowly spin the barrel in the vise (leather wrapped barrel but it spun around enough to ring the barrel in the chamber area a little anyway.)
I ordered a barrel block for the vise. It came in yesterday. It has 3 different diameter holes in the two halve and they have rubber inserts to grip the barrel better. I clamped the barrel and vise block into the vise and put a big wrench on the AAC tool. No go. I leaned on that thing and it turned in the vise block. I cranked down some more on the vise till I was worrying about breaking the vise block and leaned on it some more. No go. I'm a big guy (6'3" and 300 lbs.) I got a 3/8" drive ratchet, put it on the tool for the suppressor removal and put a big wrench on the back of the ratchet for more leverage. When it popped loose (the suppressor) it made such a bang I first thought the barrel had broken at the threads. I turned it some more and the flash suppressor turned loose and came off. Sure enough. DPMS had glued the flash suppressor to the barrel with rock set.
I was told that rock set could be loosened up by putting the parts down in a bucket/tub of water over night but I really hated to set my barrel/muzzle (even though it's stainless steel I didn't know if the flash suppressor was or not) in a bucket of water for 12 or 14 hours. I've been told that rock set won't loosen up if you get caught outside in a heavy rainstorm for a few hours (water is water???)
Anyway, I finally had it where I wanted it. I got the new barrel nut installed (easy), screwed the new YHM free float tube on (easy), got it lined up, tightened up the jamb nut, installed the set screws (all pretty easy), put the gas block back on and tightened up the set screws (easy) and put the flash suppressor back on (easy to do).
Only issue I have not is I need to remove a little more metal off the front/bottom of the scope mount so it doesn't contact the top rail on the free float tube. I'd used the hobby belt sander (1" wide belt) to make one "cut" but didn't go back quite far enough. I need the scope a bit farther forward to get my nose on the charging handle and get a clear image through the scope (no edge shadows).
I like those M16A1 butt stocks (a little shorter than the A2's) and I'd ordered a couple of those (have them on another rifle, too). I'd also ordered a rifle buffer tube, buffer spring and buffer. Found I couldn't use the rifle buffer due to the length of the GII bolt (would not go back far enough to allow the bolt to lock back on an empty magazine) so I took the rifle buffer out and put the GII buffer in it instead. If you're going to use standard AR15 buffer tubes and stocks (like the GII does) the longer bolt requires a shorter buffer.
Here's the picture of the (almost) finished rifle. Hopefully I'll get it to the range for yet another sight in session one day next week after the snow melts. It should be gone by Wednesday or Thursday if it warms up like predicted.
And, nose to the charging handle on a .308? So far I've put almost 200 rounds through it like that and while I can tell it's more recoil than a regular AR15 (.223/5.56X45) it's not as bad as you might think.
I might get around to camouflaging it some pretty day this spring when there's lots of sunshine to warm it up and dry it out.
I've got an adjustable gas block on order for it (back order it seems). Without all the factory rock set that should be a much easier job.
Oh, this is what rock set looks like after you get the pieces apart. The front ring on the barrel is about where the back of the flash suppressor stops/sits. Not sure about the back ring though. The barrel vise was set back at the shoulder where the gas block is usually located and is about 5" wide, so it didn't make those marks.