Tiny Screws in CGW Part #75585

[cntrydawwwg]

Thanks. Wanted to make sure I was giving out correct info

[1SOW]

Like Cntry,  thank you for the info..
I'm  not a big fan of of the OT screw having seen a several instances of problems when it was set significantly close to the hammer drop. 
My reset  does have some excess travel,  but I use FEEL and ride the reset thanks to the great reset feel with the  CGW action parts.

[TNman]

Thanks everyone. All of your advice is helpful. I now have one last question. I am having difficulty inserting the trigger return spring. The first time I installed it the trigger would not return to the forward position so I knew I did it wrong. But now I am not clear on where the short end of the return spring actually goes (see yellow arrow). Attached are two photos (not mine) I found on the Internet that may help clarify my question. Your guidance is appreciated.

[TNman]

Do you have the Reach reduction, or just the trigger?
   If just the trigger, you don't use the top screw, as that is the pre-travel screw for use with the RRK.
 Sorry, can't find my paperwork
    As Tdogg said, just remove both screws until you can contact CGW. Both screws go in from the face side of the trigger. You won't have to remove the trigger again to reinstall.

I only have the trigger. Not the complete reach reduction kit.

[TNman]

cntrydawwg,

Yes sir, you are correct.

So am I not suppose to use the top screw even though it was included in the package? I knew I should have just sent this to CGW in the first place.

[cntrydawwwg]

Thanks everyone. All of your advice is helpful. I now have one last question. I am having difficulty inserting the trigger return spring. The first time I installed it the trigger would not return to the forward position so I knew I did it wrong. But now I am not clear on where the short end of the return spring actually goes (see yellow arrow). Attached are two photos (not mine) I found on the Internet that may help clarify my question. Your guidance is appreciated.

   IIRC, the short end goes in the groove on the frame, long end in the trigger. Yes you have to force it by pushing down on the TRS.
   Side note::: Do Not use bare pliers. Any scratch or nick in the TRS may shorten the life of the spring.
   I use needle nose pliers with electrical tape wrapped around the jaws. This avoids any damage.

[schmeky]

TNman,

Don't despair.  We make a lot of products and many overlap.  This keeps costs reasonable. 

If you call us for tech support, we'll be more than happy to keep your project on track.   Plus the regulars on this forum typically know as much as we do and will provide you with good answers as well.  Great forum, great members, you found the right place.

318-372-9050
318-614-7003

[TNman]

TNman,

Don't despair.  We make a lot of products and many overlap.  This keeps costs reasonable. 

If you call us for tech support, we'll be more than happy to keep your project on track.   Plus the regulars on this forum typically know as much as we do and will provide you with good answers as well.  Great forum, great members, you found the right place.

318-372-9050
318-614-7003

Thank you.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

[doc171]

This post is a little off topic, but when I installed the Pro kit in my P01, I had noticed the increased angle needed to move the set screws in and out. I purchased from Amazon a set of long metric ball end hex wrenches. (You actually only need one of the smaller ones, but you have to buy the set) They have the ability to be used in an offset angle of a maximum of 25 degrees similar to what you have on the trigger guard when adjusting the set screw in and out. It was a Tekton 25272 for $11.81.

[TNman]

PROJECT DONE !!!!

Holy Cow! It's finally back together. Yes - the screws were in backwards and YES - when just installing the Old Style trigger you only use the bottom over travel screw and NOT the top screw. I confirmed that with the gunsmiths at CGW, and YES - I had to take the trigger return spring off 3 times to get it all right. I also spent a little time polishing the feed ramp and some of the internals. Bottom line I ended up with about a 8.5 lbs. DA and 3.5 - 4 lbs SA. But with the work I did the trigger pull is soooo smooth as compared to the out-of-the-box trigger.

TIP - someone may have mentioned this before but the only way I could get the trigger return spring back in place and lined up so the trigger pin would seat properly was to use the tiny piece of wood (see photo) I cut down to hold the return spring in the trigger then use the trigger pin to drive out the wood so the spring stayed put. Strange but it worked. It's actually a wooden Q-Tip stem cut down.

[Scarlett Pistol]

PROJECT DONE !!!!

Holy Cow! It's finally back together. Yes - the screws were in backwards and YES - when just installing the Old Style trigger you only use the bottom over travel screw and NOT the top screw. I confirmed that with the gunsmiths at CGW, and YES - I had to take the trigger return spring off 3 times to get it all right. I also spent a little time polishing the feed ramp and some of the internals. Bottom line I ended up with about a 8.5 lbs. DA and 3.5 - 4 lbs SA. But with the work I did the trigger pull is soooo smooth as compared to the out-of-the-box trigger.

TIP - someone may have mentioned this before but the only way I could get the trigger return spring back in place and lined up so the trigger pin would seat properly was to use the tiny piece of wood (see photo) I cut down to hold the return spring in the trigger then use the trigger pin to drive out the wood so the spring stayed put. Strange but it worked. It's actually a wooden Q-Tip stem cut down.

Nicely done! I remember working on my first CZ and the learning curve, it was tricky. Totally worth it once everything is done and you now know how to work on your pistol. Congratulations!

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[tdogg]

Nicely done!

Next time you place an order with CGW add a floating trigger pin to the order.  It makes pulling the trigger for future work much easier as you don't have to restake the trigger pin in place.  It also comes with a slave pin (similar to your qtip) that (as you have experienced) will facilitate quick easy trigger installs.

Did you set the overtravel setcrew and loctite it in place?  If you rewatch that video that was posted it will make more sense now. 

You want to make sure that the overtravel screw isn't so tight (limiting the rearward travel of the trigger) that the sear makes contact with the hammer hooks (when the trigger is fully depressed as you thumb the hammer from cocked to decocked).  Watch the hammer hooks closely and feel the motion of the hammer carefully to see if there is any rubbing/contact.  If so, you will need to loosen the trigger overtravel set screw a half a turn and check again.  I'd recommend you perform this procedure before adding any loctite just to fully understand the process.  Once comfortable degrease the trigger and set screw and apply medium strength loctite and repeat the process.  Let the loctite dry overnight to ensure the set screw doesn't walk before use. 

I'd also add the sear to hammer clearance inspection procedure to the general inspection process when cleaning the gun.  That way you will keep tabs on that setscrew and could make adjustments as needed (in the comfort of your home workspace and not at the range or worse yet...).

Cheers,
Toby

[TNman]

Nicely done!

Next time you place an order with CGW add a floating trigger pin to the order.  It makes pulling the trigger for future work much easier as you don't have to restake the trigger pin in place.  It also comes with a slave pin (similar to your qtip) that (as you have experienced) will facilitate quick easy trigger installs.

Did you set the overtravel setcrew and loctite it in place?  If you rewatch that video that was posted it will make more sense now. 

You want to make sure that the overtravel screw isn't so tight (limiting the rearward travel of the trigger) that the sear makes contact with the hammer hooks (when the trigger is fully depressed as you thumb the hammer from cocked to decocked).  Watch the hammer hooks closely and feel the motion of the hammer carefully to see if there is any rubbing/contact.  If so, you will need to loosen the trigger overtravel set screw a half a turn and check again.  I'd recommend you perform this procedure before adding any loctite just to fully understand the process.  Once comfortable degrease the trigger and set screw and apply medium strength loctite and repeat the process.  Let the loctite dry overnight to ensure the set screw doesn't walk before use. 

I'd also add the sear to hammer clearance inspection procedure to the general inspection process when cleaning the gun.  That way you will keep tabs on that setscrew and could make adjustments as needed (in the comfort of your home workspace and not at the range or worse yet...).

Cheers,
Toby

Thanks Toby. I did set the over travel screw with blue loc-tite. I went to the range today and had them use a Lyman trigger pull gauge. DA is 9.25 avg and SA is 3.5 consistently.

I did not know I should have replaced the stock trigger pin so I found it walking out when firing. A new on will be installed.

This had been a real learning experience and unfortunately I scratched the polycoating when the punch slipped. David said because it scratched down to the metal it would be about $75 to repair. Sometimes life's little lessons are expensive but I really like my CZ.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

[tdogg]

I wouldn't sweat the scratch.  Wait until you have a lot more wear and tear before having anything refinished.  Just keep it oiled and it will be fine.

The cgw floating trigger pin is on my must have list for any upgrade work.

Cheers,
Toby

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[1SOW]

tdogg +1

Keep it lightly oiled and do your best to wear it out (good luck ).   
Your stock trigger pin just needs to be opened up on the small end with a punch to hold it in place.
I still recommend either the CGW floating pin or the CZCustom shop solid pin that doesn't require staking.  It has an oversized end and the small end is designed to be press it.  Both work very well and make it much easier the next time.