Vz.58 Torched Receiver Questions

[noozeyeguy]

I just acquired a torch-cut Vz.58, and I'm trying to come up with some background info on it (date/location of manufacture, etc.)

Here's a closeup of the "trunnion" markings (can you tell I'm an AK guy, lol):



I'm assuming the "62" would be year of manufacture, and "she" is maybe the armory where it was built? Any other insights?

[Igrlik]

she = "Ceskoslovenska (today Ceska) zbrojovka Uhersky Brod"
crossed swords = army acceptance mark
62 = 1962 year of manufacture
50354 r = serial number

[noozeyeguy]

she = "Ceskoslovenska (today Ceska) zbrojovka Uhersky Brod"
crossed swords = army acceptance mark
62 = 1962 year of manufacture
50354 r = serial number

Those are swords? 

Thank you very much. I'm just getting into how to tackle this project, I will post updates as it progresses.

[Igrlik]

Those are swords? 
...

[RSR]

swords are effectively the military acceptance mark.  Manufacturers make and then given the items meet standards for the order the military placed, then the item is accepted and the acceptance mark is engraved/stamped...  All sorts of items from military jackets to mag and bayonet pouches have ink stamps (if new/NOS then visible) and most military service weapons have pressure stamp/engraving as well.

[RSR]

Can't see from your pic, but if not a "long stub" receiver then I wouldn't bother with trying to make this work as very very easy to create an unsafe condition...  The bolt lock piece drops into receiver rails to engage bolt in battery.  If not perfectly aligned, etc, kabooms from bolt not fully in battery can occur w/ relative ease vs AKs, etc.

[noozeyeguy]

Can't see from your pic, but if not a "long stub" receiver then I wouldn't bother with trying to make this work as very very easy to create an unsafe condition...  The bolt lock piece drops into receiver rails to engage bolt in battery.  If not perfectly aligned, etc, kabooms from bolt not fully in battery can occur w/ relative ease vs AKs, etc.

It's a long stub, it was cut well behind the locking lugs. I've cleaned up the slag from the cut and checked the bolt carrier for functions, everything locks up nicely. I haven't checked headspace yet but that's just a matter of pulling out the gauges.

[RSR]

Looks like you got a beauty!  In that pic both the receiver and the rails show very little wear.

Different size locking pieces are used for setting headspace...  Only once out of the entire spec for those did the barrel get pulled at reinstalled, as barrel was supposed to be at end of life at roughly same time as headspace expired... 

Also, https://books.google.com/books?id=Eq2Dnj4sDZIC&lpg=PP1&pg=PA180#v=onepage&q&f=false

[noozeyeguy]

Looks like you got a beauty!  In that pic both the receiver and the rails show very little wear.

Different size locking pieces are used for setting headspace...  Only once out of the entire spec for those did the barrel get pulled at reinstalled, as barrel was supposed to be at end of life at roughly same time as headspace expired...

Thanks for the info!

[noozeyeguy]

Is there anybody with a Vz.2008 or Vz.58 that's willing to make a few measurements on the receiver for me? I need to know distances between a few points. Measurements need to be accurate to .001", so access to a micrometer would be preferred. I have access to several different CAD drawings but the numbers differ. I'd like to go off a working example...

Thanks in advance!

[noozeyeguy]

Update:

I've acquired a couple more torched midsections, and bought a couple front stubs from Czechpoint. My plan is to use the donor sections as filler for the cut areas, hopefully being able to use the existing rail profiles in the donor sections to match up with the original receiver.



The donor sections were cut at right angles to the pieces I have, but some careful measuring and a little headscratching tells me that I can basically flip the donor pieces 180? lengthwise and the rail profiles will match. (If you look carefully at the pic above you'll see the piece in front is backwards.) The Czechpoint stubs were cut long, so I should be able to reconstruct the magwell from those sections fairly easily.

I'm building an alignment jig out of 1/2" plate to keep everything straight and square during the reweld process:



I'll cross-drill the FCG holes and use pins to lock it all down.

Question: Anybody want to help out a ban-state brother with a magazine shell, or a 10/30 conversion? It's legal in CA to have either a magazine body with no other parts, or a 10/30. But I need something for getting the magwell sized correctly... Czechpoint is out of 10-round mags with no resupply on the horizon.