Took the 97B out for the first time last night.
My first few shots were high and to the left +2 or so at 15yards, but I must have adjusted because the next 150 rounds were dead-nut.
Here's my quick pros/cons.
Pros:
Very comfortable, could be a little wider for my hands, but nice for a "double stack"
Very soft shooting. Right on par with my Para double stack, most likely due to weight. The CZ may even be a tad better.
I like the higher slide on this- comes to my eye naturally.
10+1 feels right for .45acp
Absolutely not a single hiccup while cycling.
Cons:
Trigger is crap out of the box. Absolutely horrendous. I don't even mean in comparison to 1911s, just terrible.
Very heavy and clunky and the 2 miles of reset followed by a mile of creep has got to go.
Upon cleaning the gun, I found bits of the cheap plastic guide rod all over-I am going to attribute this to the spring rotating during cycle.
I did read about other owners having issues with the barrel bushing loosening, but I have not experienced that, yet.
Overall, though I have an issue with the trigger, the gun is built solid enough, has features nice enough and functions so well that I would buy it again. That being said, I have ordered a stainless rod and I plan on stripping and polishing the action and tuning this thing to my liking.
Now, as far as the creep on this thing. I have read multiple threads discussing shortening the hammer hooks, and why NOT to do it.
However, I have come up with two different solutions after studying the mechanics.
I read that there was a timing thing that had to be considered as the biggest reason for not modifying the hammer hooks. Basically, shortening the hooks results in the hammer dropping before the block is fully disengaged.. The simplest remedy would be to just get rid of the firing pin block.. NOT going to do that..
The first thing I noticed about the FPB lifter arm is that it's separate from the sear.. So, here's my theory. Bear with me.
Let's put the case hardening argument aside for a minute, as this is a theory based solely on the mechanism.
Let's say I make the hammer hooks shorter (without changing angle) the hammer drops before the FPB is depressed, yes? Well, what if I also shortened the leg on the sear that engages the trigger bar? The leg for the FPB remains the same. The felt take-up will increase slightly, but done carefully, the trigger bar will still lift the firing pin block the same amount and engage the sear when it needs to.
This is my working theory.. Does this make sense?