Reducing "Camming" of hammer in SA

[Keithandstef]

A fellow board member (Scarlet Pistol) was kind enough to post the below CGW hammer, which could help with my 75B stainless' small amount of camming before hammer drop in SA. It's no more than any other 75B really, but I'd like to see if it can be reduced. Two questions please:

1) I'm a pretty capable guy and could probably do the surgery myself. But is this likely a straight drop in kind of thing, or will some "fitting" likely be needed?
2) How much difference will this likely make in camming if I don't do the adjustable sear as well?

https://cajungunworks.com/product/manual-safety-stainless-steel-hammer/

[SI_Pop]

If you install only the hammer, you will need to also fit the safety to the sear to restore proper function. CGW also sells their hammer kit, which comes with a billet adjustable sear, which makes it much more of a "drop in" project. If you have any further questions, there are members here who know a whole lot more than me! I believe Scarlett Pistol made a video detailing how to fit the OEM sear, but I'm not quite sure where it is. Good luck!

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

The adjustable sear is needed to restore proper safety function otherwise as SI_Pop stated you will have to fit the safety/sear to restore the proper operation of the safety. Either way you go the CGW hammer will eliminate the camming in SA and provides a seriously nice crisp SA pull. Got these hammers in 6 of my CZ's,they are worth the work.

[Keithandstef]

The adjustable sear is needed to restore proper safety function otherwise as SI_Pop stated you will have to fit the safety/sear to restore the proper operation of the safety. Either way you go the CGW hammer will eliminate the camming in SA and provides a seriously nice crisp SA pull. Got these hammers in 6 of my CZ's,they are worth the work.

So the adjustable seer is needed if I go with the competition hammer? You mentioned you have the hammer in several of your guns and it improved camming. Did you get the new sear as well? Thanks.

[Mick-S]

The adjustable sear isn't required. It just makes it a little simpler. I have the CGW race hammer with the oem sear in mine. Took me about 5 minutes to fit it with a fine file and i'm NOT a gunsmith.
There are several YouTube videos that shows how to fit the safety to the oem sear.

[M1A4ME]

You'll either need to:
1. drive out the hammer pin where the hammer connects to the hammer strut (may need a special hardened punch), a new pin to then install the hammer strut to the new hammer.  I did this awhile back and had some hammer/pin diameter issues.  I beat that pin till it mushroomed and it would not fully seat/insert into the hammer.  I finally filed off the "head" of the mushroom.  Sometimes pins/holes in the hammer aren't the completely compatible.  Oh, also damaged my hardened punch during that job.
2. buy a new hammer strut and pin to use with your new hammer.  That eliminates the job of driving out the original pin to use the old hammer strut with the new hammer, but may not eliminate a pin diameter issue.

To be honest, I've done this 3 times and only had this one issue, so it may be pretty rare.

The adjustable sear does make it quick/easy.  I'm only "fit" one new safety to an old sear.  I took that safety out 24 times to remove small amounts of metal from the cam before I got a proper fit/function.  If you remove too much - your safety is unusable, so if you file/stone that cam, go slow and check for proper function.  Oh, you'll need some Loctite for the adjustable sear (I used the blue Loctite.)

I don't know that the safety/adjustable sear is related to "camming" of the hammer.  Isn't that a sear/hammer fit issue?

Anyway, that race hammer CGW sells is great.  We've used a couple of them now.  Awesome smooth break after installation.

[Keithandstef]

Appreciate the thoughtful and detailed responses. Thanks as always. I'll give it a think. Might leave things alone until I get at least 500 rounds through her, just to make sure the surgery would be worth it.

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

You only have to modify the original sear or use the adjustable sear on safety model guns. The BD (decocker models) don't require it so I only used it on the lone safety model I have.

[Rwyatt]

Maybe a dumb question, but what is camming with regard to the hammer?

[1SOW]

Maybe a dumb question, but what is camming with regard to the hammer?

With the stock 75s,  the trigger pull in single action "first" rotates the hammer "back" due to the excess contact with sear.  It first rotates back then falls forward to strike the firing pin.  This is called camming back .  all this can be eliminated with better geometry  hammer hooks to sear engagement with the Race Hammer or Competition Hammer.
These  give a shorter more linear and cleaner break making it easier to shoot accurately.
Hope this makes sense.

[Rwyatt]

Yeah perfectly. I kinda thought that was what was being referred to but I didn't know the terminology so it made me wonder.

[krehmkej]

+1 on ordering a new hammer strut.
I destroyed two pin punches trying to get that pin out.
Agree that fitting the sear/safety is a simple task.
That is assuming that you're up to removing and replacing parts a few times.

[M1A4ME]

+1 on ordering a new hammer strut.
I destroyed two pin punches trying to get that pin out.
Agree that fitting the sear/safety is a simple task.
That is assuming that you're up to removing and replacing parts a few times.

Couldn't help chuckling on that one.  I bought one of the hardened starter punches from CGW and tore the tip up on it working on that last CZ Compact SAO conversion.  I never did get the pin completely driven in I beat it till it mushroomed on me and finally stoned it flat.  Some of them just can't be convinced to cooperate.  Real hard cases.

I still need to see if I can re-profile that punch tip and see if it'll last.