Author Topic: Milling for DPP - who should I send it to?  (Read 19220 times)

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Offline SlvrDragon50

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Re: Milling for DPP - who should I send it to?
« Reply #60 on: February 22, 2018, 04:25:14 PM »
Looking sharp!!

Thanks to you! If I ever end up getting a second Shadow 2 for CO, it's going to you!

Offline Vinny

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Re: Milling for DPP - who should I send it to?
« Reply #61 on: February 22, 2018, 06:40:45 PM »
Looking sharp!!

Thanks to you! If I ever end up getting a second Shadow 2 for CO, it's going to you!

Looks Great, especially the slide cuts! Thanks for sharing images.
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Offline SlvrDragon50

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Re: Milling for DPP - who should I send it to?
« Reply #62 on: February 22, 2018, 06:42:03 PM »
Looking sharp!!

Thanks to you! If I ever end up getting a second Shadow 2 for CO, it's going to you!

Looks Great, especially the slide cuts! Thanks for sharing images.

Yea, the slide cuts look so sharp. And now it's CO legal too so I don't have to worry about competing in open :D

Now I'm contemplating picking up a holster and extra mag to shoot USPSA.

Offline stater61

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Re: Milling for DPP - who should I send it to?
« Reply #63 on: February 23, 2018, 01:38:22 AM »
Looks great, how deep is the milling in the slide? I'm needing to get mine done also.

Offline SlvrDragon50

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Milling for DPP - who should I send it to?
« Reply #64 on: February 23, 2018, 01:43:00 AM »
Looks great, how deep is the milling in the slide? I'm needing to get mine done also.
It?s very very shallow. Not much room to work with because of the FPB I imagine.

Just realized you were talking about the cuts. The windows go through obviously. The weight of the slide minus barrel and recoil rod plus DPP was 327 grams.

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« Last Edit: February 23, 2018, 01:45:06 AM by SlvrDragon50 »

Offline Raining_Brass

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Re: Milling for DPP - who should I send it to?
« Reply #65 on: February 23, 2018, 07:48:17 AM »
.100? deep for 07/09 optics. So deeper than you think. The contour of the slide makes it look more shallow than it is. We do not go deeper as what little more depth you would gain simply isn?t worth milling into the FPB recess.

Offline Vinny

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Re: Milling for DPP - who should I send it to?
« Reply #66 on: February 23, 2018, 08:31:04 AM »
.100? deep for 07/09 optics. So deeper than you think. The contour of the slide makes it look more shallow than it is. We do not go deeper as what little more depth you would gain simply isn?t worth milling into the FPB recess.

For reference, here's my P-07 SR Primary just machined for my Venom. Co-witness is perfect with the stock suppressor-ready front sight! They offer a 'package deal' for Optic and milling. I couldn't be happier with the results! I'm sending my P-09 slide in next week.  O0

6 MOA Dot co-witness over front iron: Tilting the muzzle slightly upward will bring the dot (P.O.I.) into center of reticle, but I just wanted to show that the co-witness dot to front iron zeros perfectly.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2018, 10:21:09 AM by Vinny »
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Offline Wokpak

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Re: Milling for DPP - who should I send it to?
« Reply #67 on: February 23, 2018, 09:58:17 AM »
Raining Brass...

My slide is at your place so I'm already committed. But do you recall the incline you use for for RMR cut. I recall reading it somewhere once, possibly another forum.

I'm thinking I'll want a 15 to 25 yard zero to keep the dot near the middle of the viewing window.

Offline Raining_Brass

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Re: Milling for DPP - who should I send it to?
« Reply #68 on: February 23, 2018, 10:04:39 AM »
Raining Brass...

My slide is at your place so I'm already committed. But do you recall the incline you use for for RMR cut. I recall reading it somewhere once, possibly another forum.

I'm thinking I'll want a 15 to 25 yard zero to keep the dot near the middle of the viewing window.
What type of slide? There's zero reason/need to cut the P-07/09 or P-10 on an angle. We've milled dozens and dozens of them and no one has ever had a problem getting a zero. We do indicate the 75 series slides on an angle, but it's not info we give out.

Offline Wokpak

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Re: Milling for DPP - who should I send it to?
« Reply #69 on: February 23, 2018, 10:55:51 AM »
Raining Brass...

My slide is at your place so I'm already committed. But do you recall the incline you use for for RMR cut. I recall reading it somewhere once, possibly another forum.

I'm thinking I'll want a 15 to 25 yard zero to keep the dot near the middle of the viewing window.
What type of slide? There's zero reason/need to cut the P-07/09 or P-10 on an angle. We've milled dozens and dozens of them and no one has ever had a problem getting a zero. We do indicate the 75 series slides on an angle, but it's not info we give out.

P09.

Ok. Doesn't the dot then sit in the bottom third of the window? I'm sure getting zero will be fine, I'm lookin for an uncluttered zero.

I haven't seen a finished product first hand, so I don't know how it works in practice. But in a few weeks I'll be finding out for myself.

The incline discussion I recall was from the time when people (for whatever reason) were running out of adjustment  on DPP's. I guess that all cleared up now.

Offline Raining_Brass

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Re: Milling for DPP - who should I send it to?
« Reply #70 on: February 23, 2018, 11:05:03 AM »
Raining Brass...

My slide is at your place so I'm already committed. But do you recall the incline you use for for RMR cut. I recall reading it somewhere once, possibly another forum.

I'm thinking I'll want a 15 to 25 yard zero to keep the dot near the middle of the viewing window.
What type of slide? There's zero reason/need to cut the P-07/09 or P-10 on an angle. We've milled dozens and dozens of them and no one has ever had a problem getting a zero. We do indicate the 75 series slides on an angle, but it's not info we give out.

P09.

Ok. Doesn't the dot then sit in the bottom third of the window? I'm sure getting zero will be fine, I'm lookin for an uncluttered zero.

I haven't seen a finished product first hand, so I don't know how it works in practice. But in a few weeks I'll be finding out for myself.

The incline discussion I recall was from the time when people (for whatever reason) were running out of adjustment  on DPP's. I guess that all cleared up now.

No, that's not the way zeroing a red dot works. The dot should always be zerod with the dot in the center of the glass, regardless of distance.

Offline Vinny

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Re: Milling for DPP - who should I send it to?
« Reply #71 on: February 23, 2018, 01:33:29 PM »
Raining Brass...

My slide is at your place so I'm already committed. But do you recall the incline you use for for RMR cut. I recall reading it somewhere once, possibly another forum.

I'm thinking I'll want a 15 to 25 yard zero to keep the dot near the middle of the viewing window.

Ok. Doesn't the dot then sit in the bottom third of the window? I'm sure getting zero will be fine, I'm lookin for an uncluttered zero.

I haven't seen a finished product first hand, so I don't know how it works in practice. But in a few weeks I'll be finding out for myself.

The incline discussion I recall was from the time when people (for whatever reason) were running out of adjustment  on DPP's. I guess that all cleared up now.

No, that's not the way zeroing a red dot works. The dot should always be zerod with the dot in the center of the glass, regardless of distance.

Yes, but once the dot IS zeroed, the dot will be your P.O.I. 
Place the dot onto your target and that's where the bullet will go, regardless of whether it's 'exactly' in the center of window or not.

You're focusing on your target with both eyes open and placing the dot where you want to hit. You don't have worry about lining anything else up. And yes, the dot will most likely be somewhere in the center of the window, but it doesn't matter whatsoever; the bullet will go where the dot is on your target. It's that simple! Really.
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Offline Wokpak

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Re: Milling for DPP - who should I send it to?
« Reply #72 on: February 23, 2018, 04:35:01 PM »
The question was more...

If the BUIS are on target at a given distance, where is the dot? In the lower third where the irons are or in the middle of the window? If the dot is in the middle of the window, it cannot converge on the bullet path at the same distance as the BUIS point of aim.

Offline SlvrDragon50

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Re: Milling for DPP - who should I send it to?
« Reply #73 on: February 23, 2018, 04:47:11 PM »
The question was more...

If the BUIS are on target at a given distance, where is the dot? In the lower third where the irons are or in the middle of the window? If the dot is in the middle of the window, it cannot converge on the bullet path at the same distance as the BUIS point of aim.

When you sight in the dot, it should always be in the middle. When people say run out of adjustment on the DPP, that was usually with the DPP BUIS which has to do with having to use a taller than average front sight post.

The irons are usually cowitnessed with the dot in the middle of the window. I think lower 1/3 cowitness is pretty rare with pistols.

Offline Raining_Brass

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Re: Milling for DPP - who should I send it to?
« Reply #74 on: February 23, 2018, 05:48:06 PM »
As I said, I think you're just confused on how zeroing and co witness with a pistol dot works.

Just because you're adjusting the dot one way or the other, you STILL want to put the dot center of the glass. There's no circumstance that you should have a "zerod" dot that you're aiming with at the bottom of the glass. lol

Co witness sights have absolutely nothing to do with it. They're irrelevant to your dot zero. If you have a lower 1/3 co witness the dot will sit above the sights. You don't try to manipulate things so you're using the dot at the bottom of the glass so it co witnesses perfectly with the sights.