My Pre-B refinishing and modification diary

[Underwhere]

I'm going to have a lot of fun with this. I have a Pre-B that I'm going to attempt to modify and refinish. I certainly don't have the skills of SP01Shadow nor The Guardian but I'll give it a shot.
I'm not looking to give instruction in this thread, rather just post my progress and gather feedback and help if I run into issues or questions (already have). This is going to take a while too. It's not going to be done overnight. This may be a month or two. (or more)

I'm hoping to be as detailed as possible so people can follow along and maybe attempt this themselves if they have the gumption to do so.

A 1994 Pre-B transitional.

The Plan for the frame and slide:
Round the trigger guard
Relieve the trigger guard
Upsweep the beavertail and countour it
Bevel the magwell
Drill for a full length guide rod
Strip the frame
Lightly polish the frame to bring it to a smooth surface
Rust blue it

The plan for parts:
CGW Pro Kit (pieced together with individual components due to the differences in the Pre-B)
CGW Full length guide rod + 12 pound spring
CGW 10X barrel bushing
CGW EZ/D Sights
Grips - Undecided at this point

[Underwhere]

Day 1: Received the gun.
It's definitely dirty.
Has a roll pinned front sight.

Someone used a wood screw to secure one grip panel but the threads in the frame still look OK.
The other grip screw snapped the right side panel.
I guess that explains the clear tape on the grip.

[Blackwatch]

Wood screw!!  Not the best start! Look forward to seeing your continued progress...some bold changes you have planned 

[Underwhere]

Day 1 - After the wife went to bed

I drilled for the full length guide rod using my SP01 Guide Rod for fitment. I tried to keep the hole as small as possible but due to the geometry differences I had to open it up. Originally it was 7/32 and I had to go to 1/4.

I 3D printed a jig for the rear and it worked perfectly. It's long enough to stabilize the 1/8 drill bit I used for a pilot hole and then I used a step drill from the front to open up the hold and give the front a nice light finished chamfer.

After the 1/4" hole the FLGR was still very tight. I'm going to order the Cajun once I get my full parts needs together and re-attempt with that. Hopefully the different geometry lends itself to a better fitment.

[Underwhere]

Day 1 - After the wife went to bed and after drilling the FLGR I was really motivated

I decided to start shaping the beavertail area.
I probably should have planned this a bit more but just started to hit it with a sanding drum and grinding bit. I realize the sanding drum is better.
I probably went a tad too far in some areas. (learn for next time) but it's not bad.
I need to finish up with some strips of sandpaper to get a proper radius and smooth everything out.

I used an SP01 as a guideline.

[Underwhere]

What are people's thoughts on replacing springs on a 24 year old gun?

Everything? Already replacing the hammer, recoil, firing pin spring, trigger return with CGW parts.

I'm wondering about sear spring, mag release, slide lock lever, trigger bar return

[Vanniek71]

Yeah I?d replace them all. It will be worth the $$

[Underwhere]

Day 2 - tidying up the beavertail. Rounding the trigger guard. Beveling the magwell

I started cleaning up the tool marks left by my sanding drum with 220 grit cut in 1/4" strip per SP01SHADOW's posts.

Man my fingers ache!

The beavertail is 220 clean at this point. I'll need to hit it with 320 and 400 later.

Then I started with the squared trigger guard. I tried cutting as flat as possible and as even as possible with a sanding drum.

Then I gave it a bevel.
Then I hit it with 220 in strips to round it and get rid of tool marks.

Then I started on the magwell area. Haven't cleaned it up yet.

[Underwhere]

Day 3 - trigger undercut and stripping

I tried to clean up all my frame modifications. Beavertail, round guard, magwell...then I did my trigger undercut which took about 2 hours.

Everything turned out OK. Not great. Not perfect. It was OK.

Then I stripped the slide and removed the barrel bushing, front sight and extractor. Firing pin and plate were removed previously.

Then slide, frame, safety, slide stop, and extractor went into a plastic tub for Klean Stripping for 3 days.

While I wait I'm going to start on another few similar projects.

[Underwhere]

I test fitted the barrel in a CGW 10x bushing and it didn't fit. Upon closer inspection there seems to be a dent in the barrel.

I hit it with a slat stone just to see what would happen. Nothing.

The get-it-done in me just wants to lightly sand the crown area to smooth things out.

Thoughts?

[rhart]

I'm no expert, but my instincts would be take it real slow and try to fit the bushing after every few strokes and try to confine the stoning (I'd use a ceramic stone) to the deformed area only. As it got closer to fitting I'd check the fit more often - maybe after every light stroke.

[Underwhere]

I'm no expert, but my instincts would be take it real slow and try to fit the bushing after every few strokes and try to confine the stoning (I'd use a ceramic stone) to the deformed area only. As it got closer to fitting I'd check the fit more often - maybe after every light stroke.

My thoughts as well. I wonder if this affects accuracy being at the crown.

[Underwhere]

Day 4 - impatient

I checked in on progress with the stripper (paint).

The frame and slide both have areas where the polycoat is completely off. They also have areas where it is still stuck.

While I wait a few days I'm ordering a few supplies. More sandpaper, more acetone, evaporate, more nitrile gloves etc.

And while I wait for everything I'm going to start on my other projects.

Another pre-b and a compact

[Blackwatch]

Fairly coming along!! BTW, like the stands to hold the frames upright.

[Underwhere]

Note:
No need to attempt to strip the mag release, slide stop, safety or extractor. Those aren't polycoated but are blued. The stripper does nothing on these parts. (duh)

Also note: I believe temperature plays a factor in how quickly the Klean stripper works. The can suggests a well ventilated area between 65-85 degrees.
Right now it's in the low 30's so i think mine will take longer.