Frame modification diary. Beavertail, trigger guard, magwell, flush slide stop, undercut

[Underwhere]

  I didn't install my original hammer to check but took a look at its path before beginning. With the stock spur it will definitely strike from normal slide travel. It'll need to lose about 1/8"-3/16" of its tip. It's a little more severe if manually pulled all the way back.  I'd considered this before starting.
  I don't have it mind to go with performance parts so I will start by trimming the hammer to fit and see if I like it or would be happier with an OEM ring model. I did want to ensure that by extending this that the hammer be completely above the beavertail as I don't want to make a pinch point.
  I'm also speculating that based upon my b-Omega convertible that I'd be fine if I wanted to upgrade to a race hammer profile.

Maybe I'll just toss in my sear, race hammer etc and see what I'm working with. Probably 5 minutes well spent.

[sberres]

I was gonna wait until reassembly to trim the hammer but now I'll probably have to dig it out and fit it up. Getting bored waiting for spring to hit so I can blue this thing anyhow.

[Underwhere]

That took way longer than 5 minutes.

Since I was putting the hammer and strut together it only made sense to polish things now before I put in the CGW hammer pin.

Then fiddling the sear cage back together etc etc.

Nevertheless I think I'm OK.
Here is the slide pushing the hammer back mimicking natural motion. It looks like I'm clear.

I believe the DA does not pull the hammer back as far.

[Underwhere]

What a frustrating day.

You know that feeling you get when you are doing something and are just not confident it will actually work? That is me welding my beavertail.

I have welded and grinded on this probably 15 times, each time not being able to get the pits out. Tonight I hit it again. By some miracle it seemed to work out better. I dropped my amperage to 35 max and I just spent a lot of time pushing puddles of molten metal around.

I'm calling it done even though it's not perfect. If I were to continue I think there's a good chance I would make it worse.

So here are pics of the pitted before pics and some of the after.

I compared to my Shadow 2 beavertail to get some perspective in what it should look like.

It definitely does NOT look like my Shadow 2 but does extend the same length.

I'm not sure how to do this beavertail extension for my pre-b that I just finished or the one I have sitting there ready to be worked on. I wish there was some sort of weld-on extension.

I definitely don't want to go through this again.

[Underwhere]

Now I'm wondering if I should make it thicker by adding a bead or a strip of metal in the center of the underside of the beavertail.

[rhart]

I think you should leave it thin so as to allow a higher grip on the gun as long as it's structurally sound.

[rhart]

Here is the slide pushing the hammer back mimicking natural motion. It looks like I'm clear.

I believe the DA does not pull the hammer back as far.

Will there be any inertia from the slide slamming the hammer back that may result in the hammer bouncing off the beavertail?

[Underwhere]

Here is the slide pushing the hammer back mimicking natural motion. It looks like I'm clear.

I believe the DA does not pull the hammer back as far.

Will there be any inertia from the slide slamming the hammer back that may result in the hammer bouncing off the beavertail?

Yea that's a good question. I don't know the answer to that.

In theory there is 13 pounds of spring pressure holding the hammer upwards and the slide isn't pushing the hammer downwards, just rearwards. Someone smarter than me could probably calculate the likeliness of this.

Here is a 99021, shadow 2 and SP01 all with the race hammer. They all show the tiniest bit more clearance.

[Scarlett Pistol]

If you notice the bottom of the beaver tails. They flatten and then swoop up for a tail at the end.

With the thinness of the piece you welded on and the upwards and it has you don?t get that flat then up. I think that is a major reason it looks different. Does that make sense?

How does it feel? I think that flat on the bottom is meant to help. It contacts your hand sooner in recoil or dots flush against your hand for a greater area. This distributing recoil more and allowing less rolling back into your hand. The part that swoops up at the end seems to add comfort and help with grip acquisition. These are just some ideas. So I?m curious how yours feels at this point...

If you do it over I would cut off what you added and weld a piece that is 3 or 4 times thicker and then you shape it.

[Bowenbuilt]

I would round off all the sharp edges, polish it up and send it on. It does not have to look like a factory beaver tail as long as it looks well finished and serves the purpose.

[sberres]

I would round off all the sharp edges, polish it up and send it on. It does not have to look like a factory beaver tail as long as it looks well finished and serves the purpose.

^^^^^To this. I think your main issue from the start on this was to try extending an area that was already modified and leaving you with not a lot of original material to work with. I would consider this one as function over form and not do a repeat on an already finished model.
  As to one that hasn't been started yet that could be a different story. But whether you add a thicker piece and sculpt it into shape or refine your technique to do it with weld material would be your call. I think a reflective pause and some mock up work with the method your thinking of would be in order.
  For the moment you've got a bit of experience now to guide you and I bet you've learned a lot!
  Will this one be a rust blue as well?  I'm very curious to see what if any difference there will be in how the added piece behaves. I'm still waiting for the garage to warm up to do mine. We were still in single digit temps this morning.

[Underwhere]

This one was supposed to be hard chromed with the rounds matte and the flats polished. I hope the matte hides the pits.

If it doesn't, I dare say this may need cerakoting to make it look decent. Bluing probably won't hide this stuff.

Sberres you are right about the project. I took too much off in the beginning.

I do have a problem though. I have 2 other CZ's with beavertails already modified and so I'm in the same boat with those and I don't want to go about things the same way again.

Tonight:
The underside of the beavertail had some pits so I tried welding them up. The underside was OK. Not great but I ended up burning through an edge. I had to build up the edge again which led me back to the top. The second I got to the top I started making holes again. It's a never ending cycle. I have things to a point where I just want to call it done. I will make it worse if I continue.

Now I just need to shoeshine it with 220 to get the marks out and solidify the shape.

Once I do this to the entire gun then it's time to polish up the parts and get the gun together.

When that is done, it'll go out for hard chrome.

[copemech]

it is too long and too thin and the wrong angle. and you should stop welding on guns unless you want to scrap one on occasion.

I have wondered if it is possible to heat and bend an old guns tail a bit before shaping.

work on your welding skills with cheaper practice parts!

[1SOW]

My son's the real welder and I am not,  but 7014 /16" rod would fill those holes in a few seconds of seconds.  Thickening that section from potential hammer contact back to the frame might look better,  but it's likely strong enough short of dropping it on the beavertail. 

[Underwhere]

This one was supposed to be hard chromed with the rounds matte and the flats polished. I hope the matte hides the pits.

Hard chrome probably won't hide anything, and it might actually make the flaws more apparent. Hard chrome conforms to the base metal, and any flaws (even scratches) are reproduced in detail.

Just something you may want to consider.

Yeah. Definitely a consideration. I gotta think about this one (or fix those holes)

it is too long and too thin and the wrong angle. and you should stop welding on guns unless you want to scrap one on occasion.

I have wondered if it is possible to heat and bend an old guns tail a bit before shaping.

work on your welding skills with cheaper practice parts!

Yup. I agree. It is comfortable though.
And yes on the welding. My scrap practice metal works fine. I can mimick holes and fill mild steel fine. I'm not sure what's going on with the frame but it isn't responding the same.

I'm ok scrapping this gun if it goes really bad. It's a 17 year old gun I got for ~350 which was in ok condition. Not a huge loss.
I think even if I refinish it as-is, it would still be better than what it started as.


I'm going to reach out to some friends who may know some welders. Not the MIG type but the TIG type. Local help is always nice. Just gotta find it.