Author Topic: Frame modification diary. Beavertail, trigger guard, magwell, flush slide stop, undercut  (Read 3146 times)

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Offline 1SOW

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My son's the real welder and I am not,  but 7014 /16" rod would fill those holes in a few seconds of seconds.  Thickening that section from potential hammer contact back to the frame might look better,  but it's likely strong enough short of dropping it on the beavertail. 

Offline Underwhere

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This one was supposed to be hard chromed with the rounds matte and the flats polished. I hope the matte hides the pits.

Hard chrome probably won't hide anything, and it might actually make the flaws more apparent. Hard chrome conforms to the base metal, and any flaws (even scratches) are reproduced in detail.

Just something you may want to consider.
Yeah. Definitely a consideration. I gotta think about this one (or fix those holes)

it is too long and too thin and the wrong angle. and you should stop welding on guns unless you want to scrap one on occasion.

I have wondered if it is possible to heat and bend an old guns tail a bit before shaping.

work on your welding skills with cheaper practice parts! O0
Yup. I agree. It is comfortable though.
And yes on the welding. My scrap practice metal works fine. I can mimick holes and fill mild steel fine. I'm not sure what's going on with the frame but it isn't responding the same.

I'm ok scrapping this gun if it goes really bad. It's a 17 year old gun I got for ~350 which was in ok condition. Not a huge loss.
I think even if I refinish it as-is, it would still be better than what it started as.


I'm going to reach out to some friends who may know some welders. Not the MIG type but the TIG type. Local help is always nice. Just gotta find it.

Offline sberres

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The tail has kind of dominated your attention lately but how did the trigger guard work out?  Were you able to get that void filled ok?
Best,
SB

Offline Underwhere

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The tail has kind of dominated your attention lately but how did the trigger guard work out?  Were you able to get that void filled ok?

Also not the greatest. It turned out ok.
It's so thin that it was difficult to fill holes.
I ended up with an edge of the trigger guard that had a small line crack in it from the casting. I tried to fill that last night. Being on a really thin edge it was difficult but it ended up a bit better.
It's not perfect but I can live with it.

I'll post pics tonight.

Offline sberres

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The tail has kind of dominated your attention lately but how did the trigger guard work out?  Were you able to get that void filled ok?

Also not the greatest. It turned out ok.
It's so thin that it was difficult to fill holes.
I ended up with an edge of the trigger guard that had a small line crack in it from the casting. I tried to fill that last night. Being on a really thin edge it was difficult but it ended up a bit better.
It's not perfect but I can live with it.

I'll post pics tonight.
All in all sounds like a bit of a letdown. Regroup, take notes, don't despair!  You'll come out the other side that much the wiser.


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Best,
SB

Offline Underwhere

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The tail has kind of dominated your attention lately but how did the trigger guard work out?  Were you able to get that void filled ok?

Also not the greatest. It turned out ok.
It's so thin that it was difficult to fill holes.
I ended up with an edge of the trigger guard that had a small line crack in it from the casting. I tried to fill that last night. Being on a really thin edge it was difficult but it ended up a bit better.
It's not perfect but I can live with it.

I'll post pics tonight.
All in all sounds like a bit of a letdown. Regroup, take notes, don't despair!  You'll come out the other side that much the wiser.


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Yup. Right now I'm re-examining my welding equipment and techniques. I ordered new collets. My #5 seemed to be somewhat non-circular and there was a lot of crud on it.

When I weld on this material the surface instantly goes bumpy and as soon as I give it any heat at all it develops a hole.
Certainly not the welding I'm used to. Stainless would puddle and the surface would remain solid. Aluminum much harder to start but it doesn't do this either.

I used to do a lot of stainless and a bunch of aluminum in the past. Never anything this small.

Offline rhart

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The tail has kind of dominated your attention lately but how did the trigger guard work out?  Were you able to get that void filled ok?

Also not the greatest. It turned out ok.
It's so thin that it was difficult to fill holes.
I ended up with an edge of the trigger guard that had a small line crack in it from the casting. I tried to fill that last night. Being on a really thin edge it was difficult but it ended up a bit better.
It's not perfect but I can live with it.

I'll post pics tonight.
All in all sounds like a bit of a letdown. Regroup, take notes, don't despair!  You'll come out the other side that much the wiser.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup. Right now I'm re-examining my welding equipment and techniques. I ordered new collets. My #5 seemed to be somewhat non-circular and there was a lot of crud on it.

When I weld on this material the surface instantly goes bumpy and as soon as I give it any heat at all it develops a hole.
Certainly not the welding I'm used to. Stainless would puddle and the surface would remain solid. Aluminum much harder to start but it doesn't do this either.

I used to do a lot of stainless and a bunch of aluminum in the past. Never anything this small.

Any updates? I find this post very interesting.

Offline Underwhere

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The tail has kind of dominated your attention lately but how did the trigger guard work out?  Were you able to get that void filled ok?

Also not the greatest. It turned out ok.
It's so thin that it was difficult to fill holes.
I ended up with an edge of the trigger guard that had a small line crack in it from the casting. I tried to fill that last night. Being on a really thin edge it was difficult but it ended up a bit better.
It's not perfect but I can live with it.

I'll post pics tonight.
All in all sounds like a bit of a letdown. Regroup, take notes, don't despair!  You'll come out the other side that much the wiser.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup. Right now I'm re-examining my welding equipment and techniques. I ordered new collets. My #5 seemed to be somewhat non-circular and there was a lot of crud on it.

When I weld on this material the surface instantly goes bumpy and as soon as I give it any heat at all it develops a hole.
Certainly not the welding I'm used to. Stainless would puddle and the surface would remain solid. Aluminum much harder to start but it doesn't do this either.

I used to do a lot of stainless and a bunch of aluminum in the past. Never anything this small.

Any updates? I find this post very interesting.
I found a local professional welder who is going to take a look next week. I'll post an update when I see him.

Offline Underwhere

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I was just test fitting the hammer again. I honestly forget what I had done since the last time I test fitted. Definitely different now though.

Now the hammer doesn't fit. The slide cannot move rearward because the hammer gets sandwiched against the beavertail.

Going to the welders tomorrow.

I think the solution is simple to describe. Harder to implement. I need more material underneath and less up top. I also need to fill those holes.

Every other day I feel like I should give it a shot myself. Then I remember my 8 month old will have me up at 5AM and I really do try feel like being up at 1AM swearing in my garage.

Offline Underwhere

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Here are both pics next to each other.
This is all from the heat bending the beavertail upwards. I didn't bend it purposefully.


Offline M1A4ME

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Take the spur off the hammer.

CZ sells some competition hammers for the CZ Tactical Sport that have no spur.  I think this one only works on the TS but you get the idea.

Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it.  So, if you see me walking the dogs with my SIG 556R, its okay.

Offline Underwhere

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Take the spur off the hammer.

CZ sells some competition hammers for the CZ Tactical Sport that have no spur.  I think this one only works on the TS but you get the idea.



Good suggestion. If I can avoid that I will though. Mostly personal preference.
I've made enough changes to this gun and it looks a bit like a Frankenstein at this point. One of the things I love about the race hammer is the look. Since I'm welding anyway I might as well try and make it work.

Also a little concerned about taking the weight off the hammer. I'm leaving this gun DA/SA and want to ensure that it will ignite all primers in DA with an 11# hammer spring. I don't want to have to go up in weight.

Offline rhart

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This is all from the heat bending the beavertail upwards. I didn't bend it purposefully.


If you heat the underside of the beavertail to just below red hot and apply wet rags to the underside as it cools, it will pull it back down some. Just heat a small area in the place it was welded. May have to repeat a couple of times. I'm assuming you last welded (applied heat) to the top side last.
« Last Edit: April 16, 2018, 02:49:27 PM by rhart »

Offline Underwhere

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Stopped by the welder's place today with a 12 pack.

Things seemed easy for him. I noticed he didn't clean anywhere near how I did. I was meticulous. He was not.

He used a #4 cup at 15cfh straight argon with the tungsten extended about 1/4" from the cup which I've never seen before. He had his machine set at 50 amps controlled by pedal. This is very similar to what I had my settings on.

Nevertheless he managed a pretty clean weld the first time.

Then we decided to weld on a piece of sheet metal under the beavertail to give it some thickness and then I'd go home and grind away.

All in, it took about an hour for him to do this. His welds were cleaner than mine. He made no mistakes. He also welded much much faster. There was no need for special cooling. With my welding, things were getting red hot.

So here are some pics of the welds and then after some grinding. I think I'm back on track.

I need to visit him again to clean up some edges and I think I'll have to regrind and then finish sand it to complete the beavertail.








« Last Edit: April 17, 2018, 10:56:34 AM by Underwhere »

Offline 1SOW

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Good looking bottom blend,  especially with all the welding done.

 

anything